How much should a 68-72 K
member cost at a pickapart?
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| K Frame price https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15981 |
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| Author: | sixsignet [ Tue Jan 31, 2006 1:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | K Frame price |
How much should a 68-72 K member cost at a pickapart?
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| Author: | Pierre [ Tue Jan 31, 2006 1:49 pm ] |
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It really varies on the yard, especially if its privately owned, and what mood the cashier happens to be in. It has been a while since I got a kframe from one of the yards locally, but I'm fairly positive its less then $100. Motors run $120 when they are not on sale, and if you left the k-frame attached to it they would let you have it probably |
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| Author: | Slant Cecil [ Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:18 pm ] |
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If you are going to change K members, put a '73-'76 with the better motor mounts in it. Change to the '73-'76 upper A arm with the larger ball joint while your there. |
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| Author: | sixsignet [ Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:33 pm ] |
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I forgot to mention I have a 63 Valiant. Condran says a 73-76 K will make the track too wide on a 62-66 narrow-body. Tire clearance problems. (pg 35 - Performance Handling for Classic Mopars) |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:05 pm ] |
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68-72, is too wide for a 63-66, also. |
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| Author: | VDART [ Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:05 pm ] |
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You will have more than a tracking problem-- only 62-66 "K" s will work for your car-- I suppose you could put a 60-61 valiant in -- but why I don't know.. The 67-- up k's are wider & do not line up in the width dept-- I saved a k from a 63 valiant & put a k from a 67-72 car -in it so it would roll needless to say not all bolts were put back in-- I put the "torsion bars back in & that helped sturdy the unbolted side of the k member What is wrong with yours? |
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| Author: | sixsignet [ Tue Jan 31, 2006 10:35 pm ] |
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The only thing wrong (as far as I know) with my 63 K-member is the weak idler arm design. It seems that by using 74-78 C-body tie-rods, 68-72 idler arm and a 68-72 K-member that's been reinforced with welds and extra angle braces, the front end is reinforced to handle the extra forces that high-performance radials and harder cornering generate. Pgs 34-35 of Condran's book say: "If you are building a total upgrade into a '60s car you expect to drive indefinitely, consider swapping in a later K-member as an element of the upgrade." "...11/16" tie-rod adjusters from a 74-78 C-body (and) C-body tie-rod ends (Moog ES355L and ES355R)... carry 50% more stiffness to this shock-loaded link." "The K-members ... were altered in '68 to replace... the single-point bayonet-mount idler arms - with idlers mounted more stiffly with a through-bolt." "73-76 A-body K-members bolt into all 67-72 A-Bodies. (They will fit 62-66 A-Bodies, but make the front track too wide to fit tires.)" There's no mention that 68-72 K-member (with the more strongly-mounted idler arm) creates the same "track too wide" problem when mated to a 62-66 unibody. Condran recommends having the K-member reinforced by completely welding all spot-welded seams and welding triagulating pieces to tabs for the steering box and idler arm. |
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| Author: | VDART [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:55 am ] |
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sometimes you can't believe everything that is printed -- I sent you a pic- of the width difference of the 2 k members.. If your going to canyon carve with your car--weld some extra support into your ' k' Ask Charlie S or Doc Dutra -- what they do---- they both have real life experience with these cars (62-66 ) in the 1/4 mile & still do. Drag racing is not road racing but still tests the car's integrity!! Good luck with your project!! |
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| Author: | james longhurst [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:09 am ] |
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[quote="sixsignet Condran recommends having the K-member reinforced by completely welding all spot-welded seams and welding triagulating pieces to tabs for the steering box and idler arm.[/quote] all you have to do is spend some time cleaning an old k-member to see why he recommends this. the factory welds are usually pretty quick and dirty. the frames are just spotwelded together and an afternoon with a welder and some 1/8 steel will do wonders. celebrate with a cold beer afterwards!  -james |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:27 am ] |
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Quote:
Ask Charlie S or Doc Dutra -- what they do---- they both have real life experience with these cars (62-66 ) in the 1/4 mile & still do. Drag racing is not road racing but still tests the car's integrity!!
Actually, Lou Madsen (dart270) is the person to ask. He does corner carving and drag racing, both, with an early "A". I have never had the need to modify the "K" member in my cars.
Good luck with your project!! |
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| Author: | sixsignet [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:22 am ] |
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OK. So it sounds like I'll keep the original K-member, providing I don't find any cracks when I take the control arms off. I am not a racer and I guess Condran is focusing on V8 cars, so I don't need HD tie-rods and idler arm on my relatively sedate 63 /6 Signet. I always wanted to learn how to weld (I'm an expert solderer!), but I have zero welding time. I can do the beer(s) afterwards(/beforehand/during) thing, though. I'll see if I can find a welder around here... I hope to start work by march 1st, depending on the weather in Portland/Vancouver then. Thanks |
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| Author: | NewLancerMan [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:44 am ] |
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James or Lou, do you guys have any pics of modified early A K's? I'm about to get mine all taken care of, and would also appreciate some visuals guides. I'm putting this all together into some writeups that will double as coursework assignments this semester for my graphic design work, if they'll accept the subject matter (the course is supposed to be related to education (ie: teaching) but since I'm not in the classroom this year, I figure automotive know-how is topical). I'll post what I have when its getting closer to done. Any pics you guys have of disc brake swaps, tierod enhancements, or anything else is good. I'll be doing KH discs, lca stiffeners, swaybar and a few more things. I guess K frame modification can be added to the list, though I wasn't *planning* on pulling it. MJ |
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| Author: | Oldsarge [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:41 pm ] |
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Just wondering since I've never pulled a complete K frame... After I pull the control arms & torsion bars to do the disc brake swap, how much further is it to get the K out? I'll be pulling the engine before doing the brake work, so I'm thinking I'm 99% there? Plan to pull the K and do a bunch of cleaning, welding & bracing as long as I'm that far into it..... I really need to invest in a shop manual.... Anybody have one for a '64 Dart? Thanks! Oldsarge |
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| Author: | dookdart [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:59 pm ] |
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Its easy to just drop the motor / trans / K member all out as one assy. It drops out the bottom, a lift is almost certainly required. Ive done several this way.......but always with a lift. I have heard of it being done without a lift...but never have seen it done. |
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| Author: | Walter Lee Jackson [ Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | K Frame Price |
Firm Feel offers a boxed and welded K member and all the other tricks. They have pictures on their web site. http://www.firmfeel.com/a.htm --Walt Jackson 1963 Dodge Dart GT convertible |
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