Hey folks. New guy on the block here with more time than money and sense enough to look for people that know more about this thing than I do. There is not really a manual year that fits this engine due to it's mongrel ancestory, so I have a lot of questions.

I was given a 85 Dodge pickup when some folks moved. Under the hood was an engine labeled "Super Six" on the breather. I did not know until recently when I ran the numbers on the block that it was an older motor that had been put in and connected (well, kinda connected) to the lean burn system. Saying that it ran badly is the understatement of all time. Engine and tranny both leak at the seals but there is a lot to do before I consider them, one of the power steering mount holes on the block was stripped. Carter BBD carb was so messed up it wasn't funny. No throttle kickdown assembly. The lever on the tranny had been wired to a midway position. Lean burn system was not connected to any sensors and the harness was butchered. Carbon canisters not there, etc... I fiddled with it off and on for about a year, but recently decided to find out what was wrong with it and either fix it or give it away.

Went to a parts yard and must have looked at every vehicle there before the owner sent me to a bus with carburetors laying in the seats. Found a Holley 2280 in good shape, so off to NAPA for a rebuild kit. I was almost finished with the rebuild yesterday and am hoping to finish the carb today. Took 2 hours with a dremel tool and burnishing brushes to get all the old gasket material off as they were dry and firmly stuck to the barb. Can't reinstall it immediately since I need to remove the intake/exhaust manifold to replace a stripped stud and repair another bolt broke off flush where the manifold bolt to the head. The choke stove on the intake has one broken bolt sticking out of it and another snapped off flush.

Disconnected the lean burn system and installed a Vacuum Advance distributor (from the same parts yard), then mounted an ECU and ballist resistor on the passenger side fender well. Ran a whole lot better but the Carter carb leaked badly and would not adjust well even after putting a kit in it. Holley carbs I understand. Well, better than Carter carbs at least.

Was not getting much oil to the top of the engine so removed the valve cover. All the oil ports were open, including the one under the rear most bolt so I removed the external oil pump. It had a chewed up gasket and tons of RTV. Sucking air and frothing the oil. Being "Old School" I keep a roll of gasket materal around and made a proper gasket for it. Reinstalled the oil pump and now it is nice and messy with oil on the rocker arms.

There are some things that I can't figure out yet that I want to poll here.

(1) At the front of the head is a coolant sensor that is about 3/8" or so that is in two adapters to fit in a larger threaded hole. When the engine is first started, the coolant light is on bright as can be, then as the engine warms the light dims. I think this is a temperature gauge sensor miss-used, but it still seems to be working backwards. Would the voltage not increase as the temperature rises? I don't like all those adaptors either. What is the correct sensor for this port to properly operate a dash light instead of a gauge?

(2) What coil should I be using? At present there is a coil on the block, but no condensor.

(3) The vacuum advance was hooked up to the carb port that normally connected to the air cleaner. I believe this port provides constant vacuum which is a no-no for vacuum advance. Any idea which port on a Holley 2280 should be used for vacuum advance?
IE: no vacuum at idle...

(4) The throttle kick-down linkage is completely missing and linkages from earlier slant 6 applications interfere with the other linkages and rubs the body at the fire wall. I have one from a 318 that is close, but the rod needs to be shorter at the top by about 1/2 inch and the slide needs to be cut in the middle and lengthen by about 1 1/2". I have a wire feed welder, but would like to know if there is another solution.

(5) The oil pump has a three prong connector, but the sensor wire to it is a single connector. Which of the three prongs should this be connected to?

(6) While not directly related to the Slant 6, I am hoping someone can answer this. The gas tank is pressurized when the engine is running and after being turned off was still pumping fuel into the carb. On a hot sunny day it would pump fuel into the carb all day long. If you remove the gas cap, air blows out pretty hard. Is there a vent line blocked or was this a problem with the carb that was on it that should disappear when a proper carb is functioning? At present I have a gas cap on it that I drilled a small hole in. Not a good solution in my opinion, but expediant until I can figure out what is going on.

...

Hello and welcome to the forum! FIrst and foremost, it sounds liek yo have a long road ahead of you t ogetting this truck back up and running good. I suggest you start be reading this article several times: http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/article.htm
THis is good since you already have most of the Super Six setup, a very good improvement for your truck. Unfortunatley it sounds liek whoever installed that motor really hacked up the engine itself as well as the ignition system and electrical sensors on the engine.
This is bad. You shouldn't drive the truck until this is properly fixed. If you can't find a correct Super Six kickdown lnkage buy a Lokar cable setup.
I recommend you spend your money and effort on the original Carter carb. If it is leaking it most likely nees to have the throttle shaft re-bushed. This can be done by any competent carb shop. The BBD will be the best carb for your truck in terms of powr and economy.
The choke stove is in the exhaust manifold. I am not sure what you are referring to if it is realy in the intake manifold.

I have an 86 Dodge van with a slant six and the lean burn system. I have been researching the learn burn set up and it sound slike the necessary steps have been taken on your truck to remove the system and replace it with a standard electronic one. You must replace both the carburetor and the ignition system. If you get a shop manual for your truck (or at least go to the library and copy the wiring diagram out of one there) you can trace what wires you no longer need and remove them from the engine compartment.
Slant Sixes with lean burn systems had both the standard coolant temp sensor (either for the idiot light or the temp guage) as well as a coolant temp operated vacuum switch. It sounds like whatever "mechanic" swapped the engines messed up the temp sensor wiring and mount. It is also possible that the older cylinder head also had a provision for both the temp sensor and the temp operated vacuum switch, and that someone has mounted a temp sensor in the hole for the vacuum switch. My advice? Go to your local hardware store and buy a plug for the larger hole and connect the wiring to the correct temp sensor.
THis depends on what ignition system the truck had originally. Most likely it was a Spark Control Computer ignition system. These ignition systems came with coild that do not need a ballast resistor and should work just fine. If you still have the factory original coil I saw leave it. If you don't, go buy a $20 MSD blaster coil.
The correct port is the one on the passenger side of the carb directly above the throttle shaft. Originally this fitting had a hose that went to the OSAC valve on the air cleaner and then from the OSAC valve to the distributor. The best way to route this is to run it from the carb directly to the distributor. You may be confusing this hose with the one for the heated air intake system. The OSAC valve is a little black square thing mounted on the edge of the body of the air cleaner with fittings that are labelled "CARB" and "DIST".
see above.
THe three prong connector is a connector for the idiot light. ON later slant sixes it is also the power distribution point for the choke pulloff electrical feed. If your truck has a guage, use the sending unit with the single terminal. If your truck has an idiot light you will need to use the three prong sending unit. Use whatever sensor matches the wiring on your truck. If your truck only has one wire but you only have the three prong sending unit, go to a parts store and get the right sending unit for your truck.
It sounds like you really need to get a shop manual for your truck and spend some time comparing what should be on your truck to what the previous owners have done to it. It sounds like someone really did a bad job swapping engines and ignition and carburetor systems and hacked up both your wiring harness but your fuel lines as well. You need to get a wiring diagram for your truck and make sure the correct wires are hooked up where they need to be and you need a diagram of the fuel system for your truck and the emissions package on it to make sure that you do not have a vent line blocked or that you aren't running the correct fuel filter. Some filters had a third nipple for fuel to go back to the gas tank. Your truck might need one of these.

The good news is that if your truck has been driving around for a year then it is saveable. THe bad news is that it sounds liek you will need to spend lots of time fixing someone else's mistake to make the truck run right.

Good luck! You have come to the right place to have your questions answered!

True enough. That said, you'll be able to zero in on an appropriate manual (or maybe a couple different manuals) when you decide what kind of spec you want to wind up with. If you live in a state with severe emission laws, you may have to have all the proper 1985 emission control devices in place to pass inspection. If not, you will have more latitude in what parts to use, which ones not to use, and how to hook it all up.

This sounds like a big cleanup job!
Didn't know there was any such a thing
Yee-haw. You may want to go to the electric choke retrokit once you get the choke mounting repaired or the exhaust manifold replaced. You'd want a kit for a 1979 Dodge Aspen with Carter 2bbl carb.
That's a good start.
Oof. Who's been working on this poor beast? The guy from "Red Green"? (have you found any duct tape?)
Given the hacks you've found elsewhere on the engine, it's anybody's random guess what that sensor was originally intended for. Could have been a temp sensor for the Lean Burn system, could be from the air conditioning system of a 1973 Subaru. Easiest fix here will be to obtain and install the correct temperature sender for whatever dash setup you have (temp light, temp gauge, both).
NAPA Echlin TS-6651.
Condenser...? The only condenser you might need is one attached across the coil + and ground for radio noise suppression. Any ordinary Mopar ignition coil will work. You can worry about upgrades later.
You'll have to get the truck up and running and figure it out from there! The port to the vacuum nipple you need will be above the throttle plate when the plate is closed, but the nipple itself may or may not be physically located above the throttle plates on the outside of the carb.
You'd need a Super Six kickdown linkage assembly (rods, pivots, brackets, springs, and the transmission lever. This can be found—not as easily as it once could—on '76-'80 slant-6 applications with 2bbl carburetor.
If you have only a single sender wire, you need NAPA Echlin OP-6451 (or something else, depending on the style of terminal on the end of your oil pressure sender wire). If you have three available wires, the oil pressure sender should be a three-prong device, NAPA Echlin OP-6623. Reed goes into good detail above on what the other two wires are for.
Sounds like they really screwed the pooch when they removed the vapor cannister. You'll need to go through (an '85 service manual will help) and repair the vent lines, routing them all the way where they're supposed to go and installing a replacement cannister. You'll also probably want a new fuel cap.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

No better or worse than any other system. After ten or fifteen years in service, they begin to need attention.
Yikes. Not a solution, but a hack. And an unsafe one at that.
Not necessarily true. Remember, the carb is designed to work with 3-5psi. An unvented fuel tank can develop much greater pressure than that and easily overcome the needle and seat. The same thing happens with heat soak.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

To clarify, I only drove the truck around where I worked once a week or so. Long enough to load up and move this and that so I don't think it was damaged. I have never trusted it enough to drive daily anywhere.

Finished the rebuild of the Holley 2280 and got it installed. Found exactly one vacuum orifice that has no vacuum at idle and it is working fine. New throttle return springs completed the installation. Bumped the ignition and it started right up. A few small adjustments to the carburetor and distributor; and the engine was idling smoothly. No leaks as of yet. Throttle response was excellent. I can not drive it yet since I have not fixed the missing throttle kick-down linkage.

I have 2 kick-down linkages. The one from a junk yard Super Six won't work as it is too short and binds badly against the shift linkage and firewall. The 318 Dodge Truck linkage is too tall at the top and wrong slide link. Does anyone here have a pic of their engine not running that shows the linkage clearly? I want to tackle that next.

Today I finished manufacturing a throttle kickdown today. It will do until I can find one that fits or get around to ordering one. Of the 2 I had the one for the 318 pickup was closest, but too tall at the top. Out came the bolt cutters and I cut 3/4" off behind the top connection, then welded the shortened portions back together.

The U shaped swivel at the top was too narrow so I cut and welded two of them together, then ground the weld smooth; creating a wider link which is working well

My handywork seems to be functioning, providing full stroke and adjustability for the tranny kick-down. A new set of throttle return springs and kickdown springs completed the work.

My next project is remove and repair the manifold along with drill out and retap the head where one end stud is sheared and the other end stud is stripped. I plan on removing all the casting slag from the manifolds and cleaning them up while they are off. Not sure if that orange is original or someone just painted it like that, but it has got to go!

Anyone here know what type of gaskets are recommended? Also any tips and tricks to get the job done or improve upon the original would be appreciated.

Stay away from the metal intake/exhaust gaskets. They were fine on a new engine, when the mating surfaces were clean and straight, but are to hard to seal on old parts.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Have you reviewed this article?
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/manifo ... unting.htm
DD

Big thanks go out to everyone that replied to my shout-out for help. It has been very useful.

My custom Throttle Kickdown linkage is working great. (Beginner's luck!). Ground the welds smooth, and buffed it out before painting it gloss black. It only required minor adjustment, though I will be going to the U-Pull-It parts yard for a replacement slide as the one I have is dinged up.

The Holley 2280 required adjustment as the Manual Power Valve was sticking in the down position, flooding out the carb. Much lubricant and cycling later it is working fine. The Holley looks really good now that I cleaned it all up with the Dremel Tool. I made a mount for the manual choke mount that will do until I decide what course of action to follow on the engine choke. (Cut to size, file to fit and paint to match!)

I pre-set the valve lash at 13 and 23 cold, then dialed them in hot. Very little adjustment was required.

I still have the Intake/Exhaust manifold cleanup, de-slag and gasket replacement ahead of me this weekend. Picked up a set of new studs, bolts from NAPA and the correct triangular and round washers at the parts yard earlier this week along with a tube of Hylomar sealant and a composite gasket set from NAPA. It is my intention to completely smooth the exterior surfaces of the intake/exhaust manifold for the "finish look". It's a quark I have...

I do some "for the fun of it" aluminum casting in sand and plaster so I have a number of sheets of plate glass and plate steel that I use for creating a flat surface and plan on building a smooth mating surface on the intake/exhaust. At present there are no leaks, but the missing stud that is snapped off and the one that is stripped on the other end irritate me.

It had the wrong plugs in it too. The 5/8" diameter plugs, which I guess allowed the aluminum tubes to leak oil. Went to OReillys and picked up the right set of plugs, 13/16". Used a smudge of sealant on the rubber rings of the aluminum tubes. Had to run the plugs in and out several times before they would seat properly. The difference in the engine is noticeable however. No more leaking at the plugs and the engine is a bit more responsive.

Addressed the air pressure building up in the fuel tank. Found the vent line beside the fuel pump, disconnected and thoroughly clogged. Used welding wire from a wire feed welder to open the line up, using compressed air from the fuel tank end of the hose to clear the gunk out of it as well as I could. With no carbon canisters to reconnect it to I put a carbon filter on the end of the hose I attached to the metal line and wired it up behind the headlight. Not acceptable as a permanent repair, but okay while I am repairing the motor's other troubles. Nice to have the original fuel tank cap back on. There are many, many new vehicles with near perfect conditon carbon canisters at the part yard, pretty much for the taking for a couple bucks. A hard resource to over look as long as I can find a set that mount acceptably.

The truck only has an "idiot light" for the oil sensor, so I just connected the light up to the right point on the sensor. Working okay, but will be looking for a stock gauge for the dash on my next trip to the part yard. Additionally will be looking for a fan shroud. Something I had over looked until I realized it was too easy to service the belts. In my opinion it is a necessity for any vehicle that idles for any period of time.

As the situation now stands I can walk up to the truck and bump the ignition to start it. This seems to have solved the engines oil leaks, which I had thought were coming from the rear engine seal! Very good news as now I only have to address the forward transmission seal leak.

Anyway, thanks again to all the folks that responded, everyone that posts to the forums since I use them regularly and again to those who wrote the articles for the Slant 6. It has all been very helpful and I believe will continue to be.

MongrelSix!

Actually, the best available plugs for the pre-'74-style heads (w/spark plug tubes) are 5/8" hex, they are NGK ZFR5N. The plugs' hex size does not influence leaking in this area. Remember, the spark plugs' metal ring gaskets are not used in this application; take 'em off! Smudge of sealant isn't really the right way to seal the plug tubes, either; replace the plug tube seals if they're crispy.
Good sleuthing work.
Sounds like a big improvement!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.