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| Brake plumbing correct? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16158 |
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| Author: | JamesM007 [ Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | Brake plumbing correct? |
I changed out the brake master cylinder on the 64 Valiant with 9" drums all the way around to a 67+ style. Put a new master in ans I went to the pick a part and pulled a junction block out of a 67-68. I thought i remembered how it was plumbed but now I'm not so sure. Could any of you take a look at this configuration and let me know if it is plumbed right? Thanks  [/img]
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:09 am ] |
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Image doesn't load. |
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| Author: | JamesM007 [ Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:12 am ] |
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Sorry, resized image should work now. direct link http://img416.imageshack.us/img416/6321 ... ter3gy.png |
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| Author: | gmader [ Mon Feb 13, 2006 11:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The junction block really isn't needed. You don't have the brake light on your dash, and that is one of the only useful functions it has. You need a proportioning valve, which is one of the other functions, however, an adjustable prop valve will serve you much better. See Rick E's write up for the basics http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html I just finished my brakes, and they are pretty far from stock. The fixed prop valve didn't work well with completely stock brakes, and they definitely would not work on any upgrades in calipers or slave cylinders. One last bit of advise: Take your time, and check everything several times. I don't know how many times I bled my brakes, just to make sure that I was getting every last bit of air out. Greg |
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| Author: | JamesM007 [ Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:49 pm ] |
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Thanks Gmader. We are from the same neck of the woods as I am just at the bottom of the mountain from you in Highland. I took a look at your hompage and I know your agent Liz and her husband Clark, small world made ever smaller via the internet. It looks like I do have the plumbing right and I should just go ahead and add the proportioning valve. I just wanted to make sure that the 67+ junction box I had pulled would actually work the way I have it set up. The car doesn't drive much, only in and out of the garage as I work on it and I blew out a wheel cylinder and wasn't sure if it was my plumbing or if it was just a result of old parts and not using/driving the car. I'm just completing the front end rebuild with all new parts (keeping stock 9" brakes as I want to keep the original hubcaps on the 'vert ) and just didn't want to blow new work if plumbing was a problem. If i have this right, then I should be able to get back to driving the car to work on it, right now. Just don't want to have to take it all apart again for a foolish mistake. |
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| Author: | gmader [ Mon Feb 13, 2006 1:13 pm ] |
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I work in Redlands, so I drive by Highland every day. Maybe we need to have a 909 slant six get together someday. I think you would be well served by an adjustable prop valve, even in an all drum system. The fixed valves were pretty generic. Somebody ( Dan?) will correct me, but I think that they had one fixed prop valve that fit A-B-C bodies, regardless of the weight and size. If you spend the time to take it to a parking lot, and adjust your proportioining so that the front locks just before the rear, you will have the safest setup you can get out of your drums. Good luck, Greg |
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| Author: | mcnoople [ Mon Feb 13, 2006 1:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you are staying with drums all around you don't need the prop valve. All the drum cars used a dist block but it didn't do any actual proportioning. |
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| Author: | gmader [ Mon Feb 13, 2006 1:24 pm ] |
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good point. I stand by a prop valve improving the stock set up. But I will agree with your point that the factory didn't feel it was needed. |
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