other than your basic reconditioning items, magnafluxing , staightening, and shot peen, have any of you found the need to do anything more in you hi-po (300 horse) engines?

I have an engine rebuilder here who wants to grind off the lip running the length (forming ridge, running from crank to cam on the side of the rod) and "round out" the corners near the rod bolt because he says I need it for strength, that thats where they tend to break

I really don't think its needed

let me hear your opinions

-dave

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what part of "illegal" is so confusing???

I got offered that too, haven't done it though. sounds like the reason is that the ridges and 90 degree areas are where the stress seems to focus when they start to go.

should this be posted in the race section? maybe you'd get more responses.

The key to getting a nice strong set of con rods is to have a lot of rods to choose from. When you have 3 or 4 sets all sitting together you start to see some significant differences.

The main thing to look at is how centered the machining is in the forging. Look at the piston pin hole (small end) to see if it has even wall thickness all the way around, some have one side that is thin with the other side thick.

The other thing to look at is the top and bottom weights, these are the square "chunks" that have a machine cut to balance the rod. Look for rods that have small weights - heavy cuts, these have the metal where you need it, in the rod's beam. Think about it, all the con rods are balanced to the same weight, you want the metal in the body of the rod, not in the "balance lumps" hanging off each end.

Leave the side forging line if it is sticking outward along the beam of the rod. Again, you want as much material as possible in the beam of the rod so if you insist on polishing the rod, polish the beams lightly, just to remove any real choppy or ragged edges. Leave as much material as possible in the beam.

Always use good quality replacement con rod bolts on a performance engine.
DD