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 Post subject: Front pump loses prime?
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:53 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:30 pm
Posts: 118
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My engine was replaced by a hyperpak, with the torque converter out of the car for a couple of days. We have topped off the transmission with plenty of fluid, the shift cable wasn't moved ("62 904 pushbutton type), but the car doesn't shift out of neutral in forward or reverse. Someone has suggested we overfill the tranny with all it takes to prime the front pump and then remove the filter and drain the excess. We have to remove and replace the leaking gasket on the trans. anyway, so do you think this might be the problem: i.e., front pump lost prime? Thanks.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:07 pm 
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Quote:
the car doesn't shift out of neutral in forward or reverse.
OK, a no-drive condition can be caused by many different factors. Low fluid level is the most common cause. Other causes: Clogged filter or obstructed cooler line. Pump not being turned (faulty torque converter splines). Pump turning but not functioning. Problem with the shift cable or transmission manual valve. You say you topped off the trans with plenty of fluid. What's that mean? Did you fill it to the dipstick's "full cold" mark with the trans in neutral and the engine running? The torque converter holds a lotta fluid!
Quote:
Someone has suggested we overfill the tranny with all it takes to prime the front pump and then remove the filter and drain the excess.
This "someone" doesn't know what he's talking about. Abusive stunts like this stand zero chance of solving the problem, but create lots of opportunities for causing additional transmission damage. The front pump does not "lose its prime" in the sense your "someone" thinks it does.
Quote:
We have to remove and replace the leaking gasket on the trans
A leaking trans gasket, eh? I have one of those on my '62, somewhere above the pan rail. Let it sit more than a couple days, the torque converter drains down into the main case, and it'll lose enough fluid through the leak to exhibit nil reaction when started up and punched into "R" or "D". Pump fills up the torque converter, and there's not enough left to apply the clutches. Add a quart or two of fluid to bring the fluid to the correct level (never overfull) and...*clickCHUK*!

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 Post subject: Transmission no go
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:48 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:30 pm
Posts: 118
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The fluid is to full line with engine cranked and running smoothly. We did remove the leaking in-line transmission filter near the firewall, substituting a straight hydraulic line with clamps pending replacement. The torque converter is new from TCI, had a couple of quarts in it before topping off the transmission to the full level. The t.c. could be defective, but it makes no movement, no noise, no nothing.The '62 engine was removed, the '74 engine installed, with Lokar linkage properly adjusted at the carburetor. The trans. linkage at the trans. linkage at the transmission was not moved or taken loose. The trans. was shifting perfectly before the engine swap. The t.c. was out of the trans. for a couple of days before the new engine was installed. We do not intend to DRIVE the car overfilled, but just thought that overfilling to prime the pump might work, as an old Mopar man has done on a couple of occassions over the years. He's almost 70, and says this condition rarely happens, but overfilling, then draining the overfill has worked for him. What say you?

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.


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 Post subject: Where did you get the
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:55 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2005 8:43 pm
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Where did you get the converter? I would run the part# by TCI and make sure it is the correct application for your early 904 not a later one. That might be your problem as the splines might not be meshing or touching etc...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:10 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8816
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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If you are using a 62 transmission, and a 74 engine, you need a torque converter for a 62 trans, and an adapter ring for the 74 crankshaft. The splines on the 62 trans are smaller then on a 74 converter, and will not engage.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
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 Post subject: Transmission no go
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:45 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:30 pm
Posts: 118
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THAT must be the problem! Thanks. I'll see about that tomorrow.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 5:42 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:30 pm
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My torque converter is a TCI 3,500 stall custom unit. But it seems that TCI doesn't make a t.c. to fit a pre-67 slant six 904 tranny. My trans. is a 62, and the crank is a 64, so both have finer splines than the later model t.c.'s. So I'll have to send off my original STOCK converter and have it upgraded to the specs of the TCI converter. Or does anyone have a solution to the mix-match TCI converter to my 62 904 pushbutton tranny? I would like to keep the TCI unit ($$$) if possible. Thanks.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 7:35 pm 
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Quote:
Or does anyone have a solution to the mix-match TCI converter to my 62 904 pushbutton tranny? I would like to keep the TCI unit ($$$) if possible.
Your other option is digging into the transmission (also $$$) to swap in a different input shaft, front pump and assorted other parts. Y'may as well get the correct torque converter for the application, sell the one you have now, and bolt it all up properly.

(H'mm...how'd we manage to fit the 1-1/4" diameter '68-up torque converter nose into the 1-1/8" '64 crankshaft counterbore...?)

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:28 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Dan, I think the 64 crank is a typo.
My opinion: There are not too many converter manufactures, that have the parts for the small input shaft, and it might be on the expensive side. On my converters, I have them made with the late splines and the early pilot. That way I can use the converter with a late engine (adapter ring) and late trans. Early engine with late trans, with no mods. Early engine with early trans (use late trans pump and input parts). It will fit with any combo. I have one 30 year old TCI converter rebuilt and modified by PTC, to this configuration 2 years ago, and one new converter by Edge Racing converters. All my transmissions are the 64 pushbutton with the later input pieces

flyntgr: Have you run this converter, yet? What is the diameter? Is that 3500 stall rating for a slant six or a v-8? Did you order it and buy it new? Did you specify the year of the trans?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:49 pm 
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Quote:
Dan, I think the 64 crank is a typo.
That would explain how it was made to fit together! :-)
Quote:
There are not too many converter manufactures, that have the parts for the small input shaft
I bet Torqueflite Patty (Pat Blais) can hook him up with whatever converter he wants, at a reasonable price. Heck, Blais can supply the parts to provide part-throttle kickdown in a pre-68 Torqueflite, and that's a much tougher trick!

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 4:04 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 12:22 pm
Posts: 580
Location: Austin Texas
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Quote:
A leaking trans gasket, eh? I have one of those on my '62, somewhere above the pan rail. Let it sit more than a couple days, the torque converter drains down into the main case, and it'll lose enough fluid through the leak to exhibit nil reaction when started up and punched into "R" or "D". Pump fills up the torque converter, and there's not enough left to apply the clutches. Add a quart or two of fluid to bring the fluid to the correct level (never overfull) and...*clickCHUK*!

Been there, done that. On a post-65 non-cable-shifted tranny, its almost always the seal between the shifter input shaft and the kickdown shaft that comes up through the middle of the shifter input shaft. There's another seal around the outside of the shifter input shaft, but that one gets replaced routinely. People forget about the little seal between the two shafts, though :-)

On your cable-shifted '62, I'm clueless. The '65 300L I had for a while (cable shifted but with a lever instead of a typerwiter) would leak like a sieve out of the park actuator cable if it sat for more than a week, but I sold the car before I got around to figuring that one out.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2006 10:35 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Quote:
Been there, done that. On a post-65 non-cable-shifted tranny, its almost always the seal between the shifter input shaft and the kickdown shaft that comes up through the middle of the shifter input shaft.
Kickdown shaft seal in the same location, causing the same problem. Only difference is there's no inner/outer shaft in that location on a cable-shift trans.

And now I'm goin' back to the Tucson sunshine.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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