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| How much for head re-conditioning? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16386 |
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| Author: | Guest [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 11:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | How much for head re-conditioning? |
I'm trying to rebuild my 1963 aluminum block /6. I took the iron head in for re-conditioning and the machinist quoted me $661.00 to repair. Other than not being cracked, I guess it must be totally worn out. Geez for that dough I could buy a pair of complete Chevy V8 heads! Well, now I now owe $100 just for cleaning and checking. So it's back up to "Crazy Ray's" for a later model head with hardened valve seats that's hopefully in better shape (another $50 investment, plus I have to pull it and get it re-conditioned). My block looks to be in good shape and I'm just going to hone it out and clean the parts and replace bearings, rings, and gaskets. I bought the special gasket set separately. I'm getting ready to order a P.A.W. rebuild kit. I have received my reprint shop manual from "Faxon" which has a chapter on the aluminum block plus everything about my 1963 Valiant. I see no cracks, all threads are good, the cylinder has very little "lip" at the top, and the rotating assembly looks good. A little trying at times, especially on a budget, but I guess that's why we do it. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 661!!!!%^&%^*%*!!!!!!! |
Holy crap!!!!! Did they gold plate it for you?!?!?! My 1976 BL head, new seats, new valve guides, new valves, recycled springs (here's a bag o' springs pick the best 12) Hot tanked, and checked...and allowed me to pick it up to home port it before the finish work was $330 (back in 2000)  -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | mopar_nocar [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
had mine done, cleaned, no milling beyond .015" 3 new valves, all new seals, "3 angle" valve job $104. the machinist who was doing my hotrod head was only going to charge me $375 for the new guides, seats, bowl blending, back cutting of valves and a .050" mill. sb |
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| Author: | 70valiant [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 3:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
0.100" shaved off, a new intake valve, valve job, all new guides, gasket set, magnaflux, tax included $496. I cleaned and dissassembled it. |
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| Author: | dakight [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 4:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I just got a quote of $300.00 for installing oversize valves and hardened seats and milling the head. I can't imagine what one could do to a head to cost over 600.00 |
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| Author: | Guest [ Fri Mar 03, 2006 6:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yea, I thought that price was ridiculous too. Yesterday I pulled a head off of a 1980 Aspen 4 door ($42.00). I think it still has solid lifters because the underhood tag says Hot Lash .010 intake .020 exhaust and the rockers were adjustable like my 1963. Hopefully this one will be in better shape and MUCH less costly to rebuild. Maybe I need to find a new machinist. Thanks for the replies. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Mar 03, 2006 6:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, there is good quality work and there is crap. I've had $150 valve jobs and they don't last very long. $300 is a good price for a quality valve job, new guides and maybe milling. $600 should include all new valves, springs, milling... If you want any performance work (porting or bigger valves), then plan on $500 minimum. $1000 is a good price for a well done perf head. Lou |
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| Author: | kesteb [ Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Better grap the valve cover for that head. 1980 was the change over year for cylinder heads. There is a good chance that your current valve cover won't work with the new head. |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I thought the changeover year was 1981. Isn't that the year that all slants went to hydraulic lifters? |
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| Author: | volaredon [ Sat Mar 04, 2006 6:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yup. the 80 is the last yr of solid lifters. Don't worry about that valve cover if you didn't already snag it. |
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| Author: | sick6 [ Mon Mar 06, 2006 2:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Well, there is good quality work and there is crap. I've had $150 valve jobs and they don't last very long. $300 is a good price for a quality valve job, new guides and maybe milling. $600 should include all new valves, springs, milling...
I totally agree. I spent $800 total, new oversized (huge)valves and guides, 3 angle valve job, full port and polish, and shaved .090. all new pieces everywhere.If you want any performance work (porting or bigger valves), then plan on $500 minimum. $1000 is a good price for a well done perf head. Lou my flow numbers are posted elsewhere so I won't get into that....you can decide on your own if it was worth it, but I matched the mopar muscle buildup in the magazine. |
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| Author: | Guest [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
OK, my 1980 225 rebuilt head is ready for pick-up. $310.50. Needed cleaning, milling, a valve job, springs checked/shimmed, and one manifold stud extracted and replaced. I guess that's reasonable. |
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| Author: | sick6 [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
that sounds like a pretty good deal. |
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| Author: | Tim Keith [ Sat Mar 11, 2006 9:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I don't know about quality but you can get carry out heads at many auto parts chains for a low price. |
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| Author: | Tim Keith [ Sat Mar 11, 2006 10:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I don't know about quality but you can get carry out heads at many auto parts chains for a low price. |
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