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66 big drums into a 63 Valiant
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16470		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  sixsignet [ Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:24 pm ]
Post subject:  66 big drums into a 63 Valiant
I have a 63 Valiant with 9" front drums. If I swap in 10" drums from a 66 V8 Dart,
what other parts do I need to go with the big drums?
Spindles, UCA, LCA ball joint?

Then what's the widest tires I can put on 14x5.5 stock rims?
Author:  emsvitil [ Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Don't know about the drums, but the widest tire I'd put on a 14 x 5.5" rim is a 205/70 14.

I'm using 195/70 14's on the 14x5.5" rim.
Author:  Avenger2040 [ Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well, don´t know my rims measures, but currently I´m using 230/60 R14 in my four rims
Author:  sixsignet [ Wed Mar 08, 2006 1:10 am ]
Post subject: 
This post answers the ball joint and control arm questions, but what about the spindles?
Will a 66 big drum fit on the same spindle as a 63 small drum?
Quote:
Quote:
I performed this swap two years ago. You will need to change out the upper control arms to the A body 73 and later size to accomodate the upper ball joint. The setup works great and is an improvement over the 9" drums.
66Dart, this doesn't match my experience or the parts books, which is that there is no difference in the upper control arms or upper ball joints for '62-'72 A-bodies. They are all the same, whether used with 9" drums, 10" drums or disc brakes. Same goes for lower control arms, though there were lower arms with and lower arms without mounting tabs for a front sway bar. Aside from that, they're all the same. Lower ball joints are not all the same. The groupings are:

*1962 through 1972 with 9" and 10" drum brakes used one lower balljoint (two, actually -- one left and one right).

*1965 through 1972 with disc brakes used a different left and right lower balljoint.

I wonder if you might have used '73 or later 10" drums, which do use different (larger) ball joints and different control arms.

I believe the '72 drum brakes will bolt directly onto the '69, ball joints and all.

A good quick online Mopar suspension parts reference is here.
Author:  VDART [ Wed Mar 08, 2006 4:09 am ]
Post subject:  10" swap
just did this on my 62-- all you need is the spindle /backing plate assy-- upper/lower --control arms are the same-- you need the stuff between-- brake hose will be different also--
it stops much better!!!!!
9" spindles are smaller than the 10" ones-- -ez swap
Author:  sixsignet [ Wed Mar 08, 2006 7:46 am ]
Post subject: 
Which brake hoses did you use?
Author:  VDART [ Wed Mar 08, 2006 3:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
ones for 10" brake a bodies
Author:  sixsignet [ Wed Mar 08, 2006 4:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
duh :oops:
Author:  sixsignet [ Sat Mar 11, 2006 2:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
Got my 10" drum brakes, spindles and stuff.
Only broke one bolt.

Now I need three or five 14x5.5 rims.

I'm going to get a front end kit for a 65-72 disc brake car for the HD lower ball joint.

The V8 torsion bars (probably .870 ) should be in good shape - I pulled them back 6 inches and rested the front on a metal crossbar of this cage they sat the car on.
Portland Auto Wrecking - a 66 Dart 270 4-door, all the way in back.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Mar 11, 2006 8:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Sbp/lbp?
Quote:
Now I need three or five 14x5.5 rims.
If they were LBP, I have a set of 4 off a '74 Duster you could have for local pickup...

-D.Idiot
Author:  sixsignet [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 7:00 am ]
Post subject: 
I need SBP
Thanks anyway.
I hope to find a 70s sbp car with wheels still on it somewhere in Oregon pick a parts.
Author:  sixsignet [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 5:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
The right 10" drum assy I got had a broken stud, but later I found out it had LH threaded studs! Both front drums had LH threads!
I struggled to remove the broken stud - my first time.
It took a day and a half, but I now have new RH studs in the hub and loose drum.


Using a hand drill and a hammer, I center-drilled the head of each stud with a 3/16" bit, then a 1/2" bit, then I used a rotary file bit to grind the hole larger until the ring that was left over from the head came loose.

The whole time I was concerned that I was damaging the hub or drum with my roundabout way of grinding off the heads.

Now I have new studs on what will become my right front wheel, but what about the others?
The right rear studs feel like they're stretching, so they should go.

New RH studs all around would be a nice upgrade and would alleviate somewhat the fear that a wheel will fall off on the freeway.
Although the correct way to do the rear studs would be removing the axle shafts and replacing the studs on the bench, there then would be the fear of an axle shaft coming loose at speed.
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