well, finished swapping in my rear disc setup today and what a trip. the pedal isn't quite as high as when i started, but the calipers have much more area so i sorta expected that.
fitting things up was a bit of a trip. the lower caliper bolt would not go in since the leaf spring was in the way, necessitating the loosening of the U-bolts and jacking the axle up. when i called scarebird i was told they fit right on some cars but not all. i think this is bullshit since the plate could be welded to it's center at a different angle and work on most all mopars, but i didn't make this setup, so what do i know. you can tell from the pics that it wouldn't take much to fix this.
overall, it was a pretty painless swap. i had to file the mounting holes a little bit to get the plate on without damaging the threads on the axle tube studs. the hard brakelines on the axle housing had to be bent a little differently to make it to the caliper hose fittings, but it was not sweat. well, except for the fitting that broke off the driver's side line at the old wheel cylinder. a few minutes with a flaring tool and power drill and all was well. the e-brake cables on this car do not fit properly, but i think a couple of pieces of steel pipe used as a spacer between the caliper and cable housing should work fine, and even help with cable fitment on the driver's side. i'll let you know more after i get to the hardware store later on.
driving was as expected. like i said the pedal was a bit lower at first, but improved after burnishing the pads and driving a few milies. braking was very predictable and there was no sign of lockup without an adj. prop valve, though i have not pushed it that far yet.
like i said, pretty painless with the exception of the lower caliper bolt issue. the reasons i went with their setup was cost and simplicity. if i had to do another a-body, i think i would go with the TSM setup as it appears to offer some adjustability where the caliper placement is concerned. hopefully when i swap in a b-body axle to nix the wheel spacers things will work better in this department.

-james
outside view.
inside view. the brake hose runs below the axle tube to meet the hardline from the axle.
dennis weaver is drooling right now! that's a 10 1/2" rotor!

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Nice, what kind of calipers/rotors did you use? I think the 73 may be getting this treatment.

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70 Dart, 360, 727

lars-

the calipers are from the rear of an 83 eldorado. they're kinda heavy compared to the aluminum aftermarket versions, but incorporate a parking brake mechanism. the rotors are for a '95 crown vic cop car. the hoses they want you to run are speced for the front calipers of any '80s caprice. this can be done VERY inexpensively. i spent a little extra on HP pads, hoses and rotors. i'm thinking under $250 total if you shop around and find the bargains (read: junkyard.) the calipers could be a problem as core charges are kinda high. i scored mine on e-bay a few years back and i think i paid @80 bucks for them rebuilt.

-james

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Looks like your using a braided steel line, where'd you get that from?

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70 Dart, 360, 727

how much was the kit?

the plates were $120+ shipping. my $250 number above is a bit optimistic for everything, it's more like everything but calipers. i'd try to find a good used set since the core charges on reman units can be high.
lars, the braided brake hoses are pretty generic. they are ususally sold in pre-made lengths and then threaded adapters are added to fit whatever stock or race combinations. try these guys: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/

-james

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Cool, thanks James.

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70 Dart, 360, 727

You said the rotors are 10.5 inches across, all I can find at 11 inch rotors for 95 Crown vics. Is this what you used?

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70 Dart, 360, 727

yes, they are 95-97 crown vic "police package" front rotors.

-james

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James,

I have read on other sites that for some of these conversions (may have been the front disc swap with the drum spindles) you have to redrill the holes for the rotors, I am guessing by your comments this was not the case for you? What about the axle/hub center, how is the fit there?

Brian

Edit: One more thing, I assume this was for an a-body 8 3/4 or was this an 8 1/4?

what company would you guys go with for a front disc conversion on an a-body? i saw that scarebird has one but i'm wondering who else does...
preferably a complete to almost complete kit

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My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.

brian-
this was on an 8 1/4 rear. the plates supposedly fit 8 3/4 rearends as well since the backing plate bolt pattern is the same.
as far as redrilling the rotors, ford uses the same wheel bolt pattern. the hub register is the same too. i guess on some axles it is necessary to machine the axle flange some to get it to fit inside the rotor hat. i did not have this problem.

carrigan #3-
i'm assuming you have an a-body car. i would always recommend buying a '73 + up disc equipped parts car for a swap. it's an easy job, and works very well when finished. the only "new" kit i have ever used was the ssbc setup on my brother's '67 barracuda convertible. it's pretty much like the kelsey-hayes 4-piston setup the factory used. it was a very complete kit, and worked very well. his main reason for buying this particular kit (other than wanting to actually stop the car) was to keep his cherry set of sbp rallye wheels. i think i did the swap about 7 or 8 years ago and there have been no problems.

-james

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I like the junkyard/Rock Auto/ebay conversion, based on late A-body parts. With a little research, patience, and shopping you can have good brakes at a good price.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I used the spindles, rotors, and calipers off an 85 5th Ave. I just went to a local parts store and got the parts remanned.

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70 Dart, 360, 727

Brian, that's for the 5x4" SBP conversion. Since the 8 1/4" rear axle has the 5x4.5" just like the ford stuff, you don't have to redrill.

I had considered the scarebird conversion for my front brakes, but at the time you still have to cut of the spindle ear. They have since redesigned their stuff, but you do still have to have a machine shop or scarebird drill a set of rotors for you to fit 5x4" SBP.

MJ