Since the overrunning clutch in my starter (Chrysler) is failing (half the time won't engage, just sits and spins, I have decided to replace it. Everthing else on my starter is fine. But I do have a few questions:

1) Is this something I can do at home. Never rebuilt a starter before much less the overrunning clutch.

2) Are parts for these things readily available? Can just buy the overrunning clutch seperate or should I get the whole kit?

3) Only does this when it is hot, could heat buildup have something to do with it?

4) What causes these things to go bad in the first place? Cranking for two long?

Oh, this is for my 74 Duster also.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I wrote this in early 2004, but have never posted it here. There is also a pictorial step-by-step guide in the Peterson book I'm always pointing to (looks like there's a reasonably-priced copy on Ebay right now).

Disassembly

Loosen and withdraw the two through-bolts holding round field frame to aluminum pinion housing.

Grasp armature and pull rearward, taking care not to lose stack of metal
and/or fibre washers surrounding rear shaft stub. Set armature aside.

Carefully pull field frame slightly rearward; rotate frame and pinion
housing together until screwed-together connection comes into view. Remove screw. On 4-series starters, this is the only connection between the field windings and the brush plate. On 3-series/1-shunt starters (round field frames originally stamped 2095150, 2875560, or 3656650), there is another, smaller-gauge wire connection between the shunt coil and the brush plate. This smaller connection passes through the brush plate and is soldered to a post thereon; removal requires desoldering.

Once the field windings have been separated from the brush plate, separate field frame assembly from pinion housing assembly.

Early-style pinion housing ('62-'69, casting # 2095219) with no
externally-visible fasteners holding the brush plate to the pinion housing:
Brush plate is held by a single screw, accessible once the armature is removed.

Late-style pinion housing ('70-'87):
Loosen and withdraw two through-bolts holding plastic brush plate to aluminum pinion housing.

Separate brush plate assembly from pinion housing, taking care not to lose
4-arm washer that will be in pinion housing under brush plate, coaxial with armature shaft hole. (NOTE: Some early-production starters do not have a 4-arm washer. In that case, upon reassembly you must either install a 4-arm washer or make your own brush holdoff tools. This can be done with
two 8" lengths of flat spring steel approx 1/8" wide. Simply bend each piece into a "V").

Grasp copper contact washer, stem and end spring assembly and withdraw
from solenoid winding. Set washer/stem/spring assembly aside.

Inspection:

Inspect two round contacts on forward side of brush plate for pitting and
deformation.

Inspect four brushes for wear. New-brush thickness (from cable attachment to wear surface) is ½".

If smaller of two round contacts is in acceptable condition and brushes
are in acceptable condition but larger of two round contacts is not, use
NAPA Echlin SM140 (=Chrysler 2275551) contact and washer package and place brush holder back in service.

If smaller of two round contacts is not in acceptable condition AND/OR
brushes are not in acceptable condition AND/OR you do not possess a
soldering iron and/or skills, replace brush plate assembly, NAPA Echlin
STK24 (large-frame starter, field frame stamped 3755250, 4091950, 4111860 or 4145360) or STK16 (early small-frame starter, field frame stamped 2095150 or 2098500) or STK19 (all others, field frame stamped 2875560, 3656575, 3755900, 4091975, 4111855 or 4145359)

If above but you DO have an iron, high-temp solder and skills, replacement brush set NAPA Echlin M503 (large-frame) or M501 (small-frame).

On washer/stem/spring assembly, inspect contact washer spring-side surface for pitting and burning. If not excessive, washer may be returned to service. Washer is reversible; retainer clip can be removed from stem,
spring and washer unstacked, washer flipped to expose fresh working
surface, and spring-washer-clip stack reassembled. If contact washer is
severely thinned by pitting, replace washer/stem/spring assembly, NAPA
Echlin SM132.

Inspect commutator bars for excessive wear and burning, and entire
armature and winding assembly for signs of overheating or local burning.

Remove sheetmetal guard from pinion housing gear case. Inspect for signs
of abnormal wear, shredded or missing washers. There must be a fibre
"brake washer" between the driven gear and the pinion housing floor. Do not allow oil or any other lubricant to come in contact with the brake washer.

Hold the starter drive body from turning, and use your other hand to attempt to rotate and back-rotate the starter drive pinion through a full revolution. The pinion should only ever turn in one direction with no backslop, and there should be a fair amount of resistance to its turning in the one direction. If backslop is found or the pinion turns easily in either direction, replace the starter drive: Pry the horseshoe clip and circlips off the gearshaft, use a screwdriver and the palm of your hand to drive the gearshaft downward through the drive, and remove the drive.

Grasp the (installed) gearshaft and check for sideplay; if any perceptibly exists, bushing replacement is indicated. Test-fit the armature assembly in the pinion housing and check for sideplay. Test-fit the rear cover on the armature stub shaft and check for sideplay. If any perceptibly exists, NAPA Echlin SM101 end plate w/bushing assembly.

Reassembly

Apply 2 or 3 drops of quality lubricant (I usually use synth engine oil) to each accessible shaft bearing, taking care not to oil the brake washer (access that bearing from the motor side of the pinion housing). Apply a
small brushing of antiseize compound to the driven gear within the gear
case. Reinstall the sheetmetal cover.

The 4-arm washer has a specific purpose: It holds the brushes outward for
you pending installation of the armature. To use it, place it in the center among the four brushes, with each arm pointing towards the pinion housing side of the brush plate. Make sure each brush spring is properly bearing on each brush, then install the brush plate assembly with holdoff washer holding the brushes. Make sure the plate and gasket are seated
correctly, then install the brush plate fixing screws to the pinion housing. Line up the field frame connection with the brush plate connection and assemble it. Push the field frame onto the pinion housing/brush plate assembly, taking note of the alignment pin (if present). Push the armature quickly and firmly through the field frame and into its pinion end seat (This will push the holdoff washer out from among the brushes just as the commutator bars take the washer's place). It sometimes help avoid hangups at this point if the armature is twisted a bit as it is pushed home.

Line up and install the end cover and the through bolts, tightening these
evenly and firmly.

Test the starter. If it doesn't work, you didn't stab the doll with the
right pins in the right places.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You don't buy the overrunning clutch, you buy the starter drive assembly (pinion, body, fork tangs and internal clutch). There are two different drive assemblies, one for the early gearshaft with the 7° spline, the other for the late gearshaft with the 12° spline.
Kinda looks that way, doesn't it?
No, just age and wear and use. They're machines. They don't last forever.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Where do I get the drive assembly at?

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

NAPA (Echlin) or any Standard-Bluestreak stockist will sell it to you in decent quality. I didn't put in the P/N 'cause we don't know which starter you have yet.

You're welcome, glad to help.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I checked NAPA and they don't have have that. I will try Bumper-to-Bumper. They carry a lot of Bluestreak stuff.

It may be awhile before I can pull the starter off the car. Goes to the exhaust shop first. Once I get it off I will get back with you on how to properly identify it. I think it is a reman installed by previous owner.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Standard Motor Products SDN-21 or SDN-22, depending which starter you have.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.