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 Post subject: Lash suggestions?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 7:57 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
I have the vales set at .018 in and .020 out
The cam Card just lists valve lash as .018?
It seems to sound okay - but it also sounds like there might be a little more sound than I was used to -

Should I leave it for now and continue with the break in - or should I adjust them to something else?

I am still trying to get everything dialed in - there doesn't seem to be anywhere near the get-up-and-go that I think it should have? The old motor with the wore out pistons seemed to be a lot peppier? This motor definetely has a ton more power and feels stronger and is also a lot quieter when cruising down the road.

Had a guy that supposedly knows carbs etc. and he couldn't find the "sweetspot" either.

We did find the new rotor had part of it burnt!! So today I am switching that out along with a different cap.

Sure is different trying to get used to NOT having a clutch pedal! :D
I like the no shift clause in this contract though!!
Lots more fun to just get in and go - spent years shifting and it's so much nicer not having to. Saves a little on the lower back too!

Later,
D

I forgot - would the TQ that I have in here be any part of the problem?
I know that once it does get going it seems to have the power it needs, but I'm beginning to think that saving for a new TQ is gonna be a higher priority than I would have thought. 9.5" eh?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:25 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Do you know the distributor's timing curve? what is initial and total advance?
Does the engine ping or knock when cranked over?
Add more timing to see if that helps low end responce.
If id does, recurve to shorten up the mechanical advance to keep the total around 30 degrees.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 7:34 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
Doc, I don't have a clue where the distributor is.
It doesn't ping at all right now.
When I take it out on the open road, as long as I am putting my foot in it, it seems to run with lots of power and it goes. As soon as I try to just hold a speed, like 55, it sputs and sputters and hesitates??
I tried a new fuel filter - helped a little, but it still does it.
I was thinking a possible vacuum leak? Thing is - it only has the two vacuum ports and everything is new. I've tried using carb cleaner to check for leaks and haven't found anything.

I looked at the dist. - there is a number inside that says 8.5R on it.
I can not see where an allen wrench would fit to "adjust" it either.
The vacuum advance works - I can put suction on it and move it.

The kickdown is still not perfect by a long shot either - lot's of slop between all the connections - going to try to get that dealt with - cold, windy as heck and have the gang = making Easter eggs etc.!

Thanks Doc,
Dan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2210
Location: Everett, WA
Car Model:
I sounds to me, like the main circuit in the carb may be partially blocked or the float may also be set a little to low. Have you rebuilt the carb?

Oh, another thought, you wouldn't happen to have the 3 & 4 plug wires reversed? The engine will start and idle just fine. Even has good power at full throttle, but ar partial throttle, will act like you describe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:58 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
Well, the timing is almost perfect - the carb is a POS!

I found a guy that specializes in carbs - 46 years worth. He looked at it and says - #1. This is NOT a 500 it's a 350! Model #4412 or something like that. #2. Both of the throttle shafts leak and that's where the vacuum leak is coming from. #3 - He is going to build me a Carter that will be race ready and tuned in trade for the Holley - I do all the actual switching labor - he said he will have one ready for me next week and I will go up to his shop in the mountains and he will show me how to install it properly and then he will adjust all the linkages and make sure I have a well running - no chance of toasting a piston!! - ready for fun vehicle!

Super nice and knowledgable guy!
Gotta get on Ebag and put a note on the outfit I got the carb from! They sold it as a 500 and it's definetely not.

Ran 70+ mph today at least 100 miles round trip and other than the carb problem, it ran excellent. Heat got to the P in TEMP and never went any higher both into the 15mph breeze and then with the 15mph breeze.

Only other problem I can see or hear is a thump in the new driveline when I back off the throttle. I think it's the slide connection a little loose. Will have to talk with the guy that built it and see what he is gonna do about it!?

Okay, that's the latest - oh and no the wires are not switched around.
Later,
Dan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2210
Location: Everett, WA
Car Model:
Accoding to the Holley site a 4412 is a 500 cfm carb, a 4414 is a 350 cfm carb. Both are 2300 series carbs.

Maybe a honest mistake, maybe somebody just wants a 500 cfm carb, that sells for big bucks on ebay, all for a Carter BBD trade.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 8:52 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
There ya go - 4414!
He said it was not a 500 because of the size of the throats on it and he said he thought it was a 4412 and would have to look the number up.
Thanks!

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