Thinking of putting a slant into a 72 Dart, now a 318.
Hope I don't have to change the K frame.
Can I use the Slant Motor Mounts for that year
Dodge?
(If I had to change the K frame I think instead
I would try a Mike Jefferey's elephant ear mount plate)

For 67 and up, k frames are motor specific. One way around that issue is to order the appropriate motor mount conversion package from Schmaker's (spelling?). I know they have the kit to install V8 into a slant but not sure about the other way around.

Thanks 65 Dartman.
I doubt if Schumacher has SL6 to small block mounts,
altho they certainly have them going the other (more
popular) way when putting an 8 into a 6 car.)
Any other thoughts (or will it be elephant ear time?)

I just had a look at the Schumaker site and they don't list a V8 to slant conversion. Therefore looks like you might have 4 options: (1) use a V8 as original; (2) change the K Frame to a slant 6 type; (3) construct a set of elephant ears (doubt there are any ready made for a slant application); or (4) removing the V8 mounts, reworking or locating and welding in the slant mounts. My 2c on it: I'd probably go with either option 1 or 2 in that order.

Why would you put a slant into a 318 car?

Maybe because the 318 needs to be replaced and you have a working 225..........

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

you will need the k-frame. an elephant ear may work for a race car, but not a street driven one. solid mounts can crack a block since there is no "give" to them.

-james

_________________

I have talked to Schuaker before and the don't make any 8 to 6 swap kits. I guess they figure people only want to go bigger. Swapping the K-frame is the cleanest way to go, barring that, I would go to a junkyard and carfully measure the mounts on a slant six car, then fabricate some of your own and weld the to the v-8 k-frame.

Either way, there is no easy fix for this.

Have you thought about swapping in the 3.9 v-six cylinder? The one that is 3/4 of a 318? I think it has the engine mounts in the same place as the 318...

Because Slants are Coooool!

Swapping a K member isn't really any more difficult than swapping an engine. You can even do it with the engine in the car with a little ingenuity. If you're comfortable with front end work replacing the k member is just four large bolts extra during a front end rebuild!

If you want the Slant 6 instead of the 318 the easiest and best option in my opinion is swapping the k member while you have the engine out.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Thx for the replies. Basically want to swap the 318 out (which runs o.k.)
to make another slant race car.
It's mostly for the track, so I might go the elephant ear route.
The K member way is possible, but I think the suspension
on the car is good enuff to use and not rebuild, so it would
end up being alot of extra work.
I think Dennis may be planning to use elephant ears in the Duster
he is working on.

if you weren't in la i'd trade you might slant for that 318, plus we could swap k members, but i really wouldn't wanna know the cost of shipping from augusta, ga to la for over 450lbs

I too, if you lived in Mexico City I gladly swap my 225 K-Member and anything necessary for your V8 and the same.

_________________
Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

You don't have to disassemble the front suspension to swap K-members.

It's easy- even easier since the engine will be out.


Raise the car and support it with jack stands under the frame rails.

Loosen the torsion bar adjusters all the way so there is no tension on the bars.

Remove the two nuts holding the lower control arm studs in the K.

Remove the bolts holding the steering gear onto the K.

Remove the idler arm thru-bolt (or stud on pre-68 cars).

Remove the strut-rod nuts, washers, snd front bushings.

Remove the K-to-radiator support brace.

Remove the four bolts holding the K to the frame rails.

Slide the K member forward and down; it'll come right out, leaving evverything else suspended by the T-bars, upper control arms, and steering column.

Might take a little prying/wiggling to get it past the strut rods, but it's easy.

_________________
Brian (Valianator)

'65 Valiant V100 170/T-flite
'82 D150 225/4-speed
'65 Dart 225 4 door
'68 Dart 225 4-door with Valiant front clip (future project)

I would heavily recommend drilling a 1/8" hole above the K-member bolts in the frame rail so you can hose down the bolt using some penetrating oil/ liquid wrench and the attached "straw"...

This is much cheaper and easier than wht happens when the nut busts loose from the frame rail or you seize/break the bolt....(luckily I had a few spare frame rail chunks laying around to re-section the rail with good nut...)

-D.Idiot