Terryx,
I did a power disc brake conversion on my truck. Here are some things you should consider: First, I used a simple kit from Helitools, and naturally it is no longer available. Nontheless, this is a very simple conversion and you can see all the steps in the uglytruckling.com site for d100's. (on the web). I had the old fashioned single port master cylinder. You will change that if you have it to a newer, double port. Doing so will require a longer pedal rod because you have to engage the booster (that you also add) through a longer stroke into both ports of the new dual master cylinder. You CANT just bolt the booster rod to the same hole in your brake pedal lever. YOu have to drill a new hole lower down the lever so the arc as the pedal moves down is appropriate to the MC push from the booster. Look at the truckling site pics to see this. My new booster rod was case hardened so I could not drill it to 37/64 to push in the pin connceting the rod to my pedal. The rod came with a 9/16 hole and the stock pin was 37/64. SO I had to turn down the bolt a shade.
You also need to consider if you need a proportioning valve. I used a Mopar Performance valve because not only do I have disc brakes in front and 11" drum in rear, my truck may have as much as 1,200 lbs load on bed in rear from time to time, dramatically varying how the tires grab the road. Cars may not need this valve, but I would recommend putting it in because if you are in there working it is the best time to do it. You will need to fabricate a bracket to hold the proportioning valve to the MC, but I will be glad to email you a full size tracing and measurements of the one I made from 3/16 mild steel a foot long and 2 inches wide. Works like a champ! Other than that it is just a plumbing job and I used all new steel lines from CarQuest. Took me about 5 hours including bracket fab, and bleeding..oh, bleed the MC on the bench.
rock
'64d100
|
