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904->833od swap linkage problems
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17457		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  bforsse [ Sun May 07, 2006 7:04 pm ]
Post subject:  904->833od swap linkage problems
Hello,

So the tranny and tunnel hump are in and line up, the problem is now the linkage. I purchased a Hurst shifter with linkage to replace the old broke Inland shifter that came with the tranny, similar to this one:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

The main problem is the 1/2 and 3/4 bars are straight, so the trans mount gets in the way.

This is a 1969 Plymouth Valiant 100. See the picture below. Does anybody know if there was a way to get around the trans mount problem? Is there a different style trans mount? Is there maybe a different shifter I could try? Are there stock linkage bars that will fit this application? Or do I have to somehow figure out how to make custom linkage bars?

Thanks,
-Brian

Image

Image
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Sun May 07, 2006 7:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
on my trans the 1/2 3/4 bars are above that trans crossmember. reverse goes below as you've mounted yours.
Author:  70 Dustpan [ Mon May 08, 2006 3:32 am ]
Post subject: 
You got to cut out some more flooring there and put in a 4 spd hump. The 2 shifter rods go up over the torsion bar cross member. The one that's welded to the bottom of the car that the tranny cross member bolts to. You also need to swap those 2 rods around. I have always had the adjuster on those 2 in the back hooked up to the shifter.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/66-72-MO ... dZViewItem
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Mon May 08, 2006 4:41 am ]
Post subject: 
good point about the adjusters

also, in most 833's I have seen, the reverse mounting tab (at the trans) goes pointing up as you have 1/2 3/4, so reverse is all the way left and UP. just another 2 cents...

1/2 and 3/4 rods have some shape that I'm not seeing in yours... gonna see if I can take some pictures (my trans is out) and post them.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Mon May 08, 2006 7:09 am ]
Post subject:  Errr...
Looks like the "hump" isn't roomy enough, the front tab is mounted upside down for an OD tranny, the reverse tab is upsidedown, and one of the shift rods should have a "dip" in it to go under the crossmember...

-D.Idiot
Author:  bforsse [ Mon May 08, 2006 12:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for all your replies. I do have what I believe is that exact tunnel hump installed, however the guys that worked on it left a lip in front of the torsion bar crossmember such that I can't get the shifter all the way bolted in. I will cut away the lip and bolt in the shifter. Here's a pic from the top

Image

It's good to know that the top linkage bars should go above the crossmember, and that some of my tabs are mounted upside down. So from what it sounds like the correct mounting for the 833od is:

3/4 (closest to front of car): tab down
1/2: tab up
Rev: tab up

I'll try getting the shifter bolted in and give an update. I'm still not quite sure how the top two bars will get over the crossmember, but maybe once it is bolted in properly it will become obvious. If anyone has a picture of a working install or linkage setup can you please post the picture?

Thanks, -Brian
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Mon May 08, 2006 3:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
hey brian... from what I see in your pix the floor hasn't been cutted off completely... you should have the floor removed everywhere under the hump but the contacting areas between the original floor and the hump. That leaves space for the bars to ride above the trans crossmember.
Author:  zedpapa [ Mon May 08, 2006 6:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
like was said, the floor needs to be cut ou to make room for the shift rods which run over the crossmember. i had to custom bend my rods with a torch to make them fit and function properly. i was able to bend and fit mine before i welded the tunnel in which made it easier. other than that, patience and attention to detail. the adjusters for the 1-2 and 3-4 rods go on the shifter and the reverse one goes on the tranny. have fun.

zedpapa
Author:  bforsse [ Tue May 09, 2006 1:43 am ]
Post subject: 
I cut and pryed enough of the remaining floor pan tonight to finally get the shifter mounted and the 1/2 3/4 rods over the top of the crossmember. I would not reccomend trying to do that after the tunnel hump and tranny have been installed, ouch...

I will be sure to install the adjusters for 1/2 3/4 on the shifter side as you guys recommended.

I have one more question before I can put it all together, does the tab on the 3/4 (front) really point down? If so I may have a little more cutting work ahead of me, or careful rod bending which may be less painful.

Here's some pics:

Image

Image

Thanks again,
-Brian
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Tue May 09, 2006 7:38 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I cut and pryed enough of the remaining floor pan tonight to finally get the shifter mounted and the 1/2 3/4 rods over the top of the crossmember. I would not reccomend trying to do that after the tunnel hump and tranny have been installed, ouch...

I will be sure to install the adjusters for 1/2 3/4 on the shifter side as you guys recommended.

I have one more question before I can put it all together, does the tab on the 3/4 (front) really point down? If so I may have a little more cutting work ahead of me, or careful rod bending which may be less painful.
if your tab is pointing up, then when you shift toward the front of the transmission, you're shifting into 3rd on a regular non overdrive trans. Remember that OD trannies had the direct in the std location and the OD on the 3rd place. They tricked the shifting so you can go from 2nd to 3rd being 3rd the former 4th keeping the stock locatin on the trans but tricking the shifter into selecting it when lever engaged what was the previous 3rd gear position

my, it's hard to read or what? I gotta start drinking my cofee earlier in the day :lol:
Author:  tkwetzel [ Fri Jul 21, 2006 9:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
Wow...I am so glad I found this thread because I went to put my 833OD tranny into my '68 Dart today and realized that the shift rods would go right through the crossmember. I did not know anything about the 4-speed hump but was wondering how it worked without it (I was thinking of doing a custom floor job around the shifter.

I will see if It some pictures of my problem and solution and post them for future swaps others.
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