Figured out my wind noise problem on the passenger door.

There's a gap on the top between the window frame and the roof frame. Plus the bottom of the weatherstripping looks really compressed and it started to crack. Strange thing is that the door doesn't look misaligned.

Aligning the door doesn't look to hard, but I think if I get the top to seal, the bottom won't seal anymore because of the cracking and the existing compression.


Does the rubber part glue onto the U-clip/molding that's in the door frame opening, or is it all one-piece (which I think makes replacement pieces harder to get). I'm thinking I could get the round rubber part separately (some universal stuff) and glue it to the molding.

Otherwise are there replacement weatherstripping with the moulding (red if it matters) that's cheap (cheap is why I like the glueing idea)


Thanks

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

of course I could always get the foam stuff from home depot and put it over the top of the existing stuff................... can't see it with the door closed anyway...

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

You can buy weatherstripping that fits just the same as the original from JC Whitney and sometimes even Pep Boys has it. Comes in rolls of about 25ft. I used black on my 64 Dart. It won't have the braided look (rubber outside), and it just slips over the rail where the old stuff sits.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I tried two versions of the generic stuff and it was an unsatisfactory substitute for me. It was thicker than the original and to make the door close properly, I had to adjust the door so far out that the sheet metal didn't align.

You can get the correct weatherstripping from Laysons and www.restorationspecialties.com. Like anything else that's a reproduction item, it's not cheap, but it is the right color and cloth covered to look like the original.

To do it right, you need to have good hinges so the door will hang properly. Then you adjust the door without any weatherstripping in place so you can measure the gap all around. Sometimes body damage will not be repaired properly and you will see huge gaps in one place and almost none in another. Without the weatherstripping in place, you can see which way the door must move to get a proper fit.

You might be faced with the choice of the door looking slightly misaligned in order to get the best fit of the weatherstrip, or have straight looking sheet metal and gaps in the rubber, or the rubber too compressed for the door to close right.

I'll carefully bend the top frame of your door (with glass all the way down) You'll need an assistant. I have checked and the top frame of the doors gets bent out slightly, not much to notice with alignment but it shows when it comes to seal. Open the door, have someone to help you do the counterforce, and gradually bend the top frame into shape again. You might wanna do it with very little force and readjust say 3 or 4 times rather than one big bend that might end up really outta shape

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Andy Bernbaum has the weatherstripping with the correct color windlace. When I checked it was about $90.00 per side for my 62 Hardtop.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Need rubber....... I saved a link for www.restorationspecialties.com for future reference

Hinges are good, and just the one door has problems with alignment and slight cracking, so I wouldn't want a complete set of weatherstripping. Since the problem is at the bottom I can probably get away with a cheesy partial fix...... at least until I can afford a good one...


Thanks

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

What happens if you leave the window up????????

Never would have thought of bending the door. I think I could do it alone using wood blocks so the door doesn't close, plus the wood wouldn't give like a person would............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I was at Restoration Specialties just last night again. They have nothing at all that shows or even tells what you are getting. What on earth is a Chrysler Belt Weatherstrip Kit? Anyone know?

Window up = broken glass! I've seen this done on some Chevys before...bending the window frame with respect to the door.

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

On your 64 does the top edge have a glued piece of weather stripping? -- the 63 I dismantled had a small strip along this edge (above the vent)-- it was nothing more than a tapered piece of semi- hard rubber. I think they are in my garage I was going to adapt them to my 62-- I'll dig for them if your interested in some pics!!

The material you need is on page 97 of their PDF catalog: 1962-1966 Chrysler Door Seal, part number 1120B-(whatever color you need)

The belt weatherstrip kit is what goes between the windows and the door frames. It's commonly called "cats whiskers". The kit has everything you need already cut to length. I buy it in bulk lengths and cut my own. I also buy the clips and install them myself.

rubber strip is glued to frame opening, there's nothing on the door

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Thanks, but I think that was someone else. Altho I'll eventually want that, I've been trying to find what one suppler calls "windowscraper." The strip that keeps water out of the door. I've found a dozen places with rubber to go under the vent windows but not the main door windows. Except that one place that wants $70 or $80 for a couple of them. You mean the channels the glass runs up and down in? I'd love to do that if I could find the materials. Thanks.