OK, here's the deal: Remove the lamp assembly from the car. Push the wires forward (or dig the socket contact plate out of the socket and pull the wires forward). Carefully look at the contact plate to see if the locating tab (sticking out from the outer diameter of the round contact plate) is in line with the two contacts, or if it's at right angles (90°) to the two contacts. If it is in line, get NAPA Echlin LS-6228 or Standard/Bluestreak S24. If it is 90°, get NAPA Echlin LS-6251. You will probably want to go ahead and get a pair of these, because if the one spring has rusted or broken, the other one's not far behind. Pick up some appropriately-sized heatshrink tubing, too, and you'll need your soldering iron.
Push/pull the wires far enough forward that you can go ahead and cut off the last few inches. Solder the new wires to the old ones (don't forget to slide on the heatshrink tubing before you start soldering!) and then snap the new contact plate down into the socket. All set!
It may happen that your parking lamp wires refuse to budge, either because the outer cable boot/jacketing has grown stiff with age or because they're gunked up with undercoating, or because they're just plain stubborn. In that case, use a razor blade and carefully slice out a section of the jacketing. Make your repair, then use appropriately large diameter heatshrink tubing to rejacket the cable.
While you've got the lamps out, it's a good idea to clean the reflectors with alcohol or something else that won't leave residue, and give 'em a quick couple coats of "Chrome" spray paint from the hardware or auto parts store. And the lenses can usually be cleaned up nicely in the kitchen sink with hot soapy water and a plastic-bristle scrub brush.