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Front end noise
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17903		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  RossKinder [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Front end noise
1965 Valiant

I was making a corner when I heard a noise at the front passenger wheel. I thought to myself that sounded almost as if something had slipped to the end of a slot and thunked to a stop.

I put it up on the rack and had a look. Something had slipped to the end of a slot and thunked to a stop - the front camber adjuster.

Does this happen every two and a half days or do I have a very highly recommended front end man to stay far away from?

BTW, how do I set the torsion bars? (I know, twist the bolts.) Where do I measure and how much and how (and/or how much) does that relate to how much sag one has in the rear leaves? I suppose there's "book" on both? This same guy put the front way up in the air when he did the "alignment." He said it was book. (I guess that should have added some caster.)

Still looking for a reasonably priced shop manual. $70? I guess they don't make them. Is there a Haynes book worth buying?
Author:  74.swinger [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 4:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Cam bolts must be tight and the cam cannot be out over the lip that it pushes against. I have seen guys do this before. Usually guys that never worked with these before.

Set the ride height where you want it and then tell the guy doing the alignment what specs you want. the factory specs are for bias ply tires and usually manual steering.(hunter machine)

I use -.5 camber +3.5 caster and I cant remember toe in but it was the factory spec. That is enough camber to cause slight edge wear on the tire but it handles better that way.
Quote:
1965 Valiant

is there a haynes book worth buying?
NO
Save your 15 bucks.
________
The big bang theory forum
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 4:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Front end noise
Quote:
Still looking for a reasonably priced shop manual. $70? I guess they don't make them. Is there a Haynes book worth buying?
Almost any factory service manual is reasonably priced in that it will more than pay for itself the first time you open it for instructions on how to do a particular job. Have you checked eBay? Have you read and followed the instructions in this post?
Author:  RossKinder [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 7:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Cam bolts must be tight and the cam cannot be out over the lip that it pushes against. I have seen guys do this before. Usually guys that never worked with these before.

Set the ride height where you want it and then tell the guy doing the alignment what specs you want. the factory specs are for bias ply tires and usually manual steering.(hunter machine)

I use -.5 camber +3.5 caster and I cant remember toe in but it was the factory spec. That is enough camber to cause slight edge wear on the tire but it handles better that way.
Quote:
1965 Valiant

is there a haynes book worth buying?
NO
Save your 15 bucks.
Thanks
Author:  RossKinder [ Thu Jun 08, 2006 3:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Cam bolts must be tight
The thing is, how tight is tight? Obviously this thing was loose because it was moving back and forth. But when I tried to tighten it the end of the bolt popped off. Is there a torque value for these somewhere?

I'm assuming that either it had been stretched at some point, or possibily it was only that the nut was completely frozen on the bolt (interferance fit?). There was a good 1/4" of flatted thread protruding from the nut. In a very big, tooth-jawed vice as tight as I could make it, the nut would not budge.

Question: How often should these things be gone through? I replaced the rubber some time back and it still looks OK. I don't know if I should get a whole kit (relatively easy) or just one cam bolt (must be available somewhere).

Right now I'm running on a home fabricated cam bolt, made from the old cams added to a hard bolt.

Anyone happen to know how they weld those cams on in manufacture? It's a strange looking thing when you break it apart. Like it was welded by microscopic welders from the inside. I welded it deep and ground down the excess. But that was on the opposite side from the original weld.

I'll bet they use an electric stud weld like in high rise steel. That's all I know that would do that.

Thanks
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