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7 1/4" to 8 3/4" Swap - What is involved?
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Author:  bwhitejr [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:53 am ]
Post subject:  7 1/4" to 8 3/4" Swap - What is involved?

I plan on removing my 7 1/4" rearend and replacing it with a 8 3/4". Could someone point me to an article or page I could read up on it? I plan to replace the leaf springs as well.

bwhitejr

Author:  65 dartman [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 3:27 pm ]
Post subject: 

You will need the shock plates for the 8 & 3/4 (from an A, B, C body) or 8 & 1/4, new u bolts (3 in radius I believe) and shorted the driveshaft by about 2-3 inches. The actual swap is pretty straight forward other than the driveshaft work.

Author:  vynn3 [ Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:44 am ]
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Totally impossible. As soon as you locate an A-body 8 3/4" rear, you should forward me the info and walk away.... :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Good luck!

VM

Author:  65 dartman [ Thu Jun 15, 2006 10:44 am ]
Post subject: 

8 & 3/4's are out there (although much harder to find now-a-days). I've managed to accumulate 4 of them! No, none are for sale as they are all destined to go in all of my 65s - Dart GT convert, Dart wagon, Valiant convert and Barracuda.

Author:  vynn3 [ Thu Jun 15, 2006 12:04 pm ]
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Yeah, but you won't find many a-bodies in or around Texas, with or without their rear ends intact. You folks to the north, east and west are lucky.

VM

Author:  dusty7t4 [ Thu Jun 15, 2006 12:13 pm ]
Post subject: 

its pricey, but texasacres.com has them. Since your in Texas thought I would mention it.

I picked mine up at a swap meet years ago, 3.23 SG with the later casing, $200.

as for shortening the shaft, on this site you will hear anything from 1.75 to 2.25 inches. driveline books (reference service manual) says 2.2 needs to go

-dave

Author:  slantzilla [ Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:45 pm ]
Post subject: 

I've done the swap twice. The driveshaft needs cut 1-3/4". Make sure you have a u-joint that matches the yoke on the rear. There is an adapter joint for the 7260 to 7290 swap. :shock:

Author:  dusty7t4 [ Fri Jun 16, 2006 1:09 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
I've done the swap twice. The driveshaft needs cut 1-3/4". Make sure you have a u-joint that matches the yoke on the rear. There is an adapter joint for the 7260 to 7290 swap. :shock:
agreed. always go with the guy who has done it a few times over the book. I needed to cut 2"......but I don't always trust the book or the guy doing it if your not doing it yourself

-dave

Author:  Jopapa [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:41 am ]
Post subject: 

I would figure the hardest part is going to be finding one. I plan to start looking as soon as I get my Duster, so that by the time I actually get my hands on one, I'll have enough money saved up to do whatever work I need to do on it, plus installing disc brakes.

In other words I have a feeling it's going to take me quite a while to get my hands on an A-body 8.75"

Author:  ROADRUNNER7169 [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

I know a guy that has about 5 or 6 of them laying around but he is really expensive ( I just got 4 speed pedals +shifter for $300.00 from him this weekend ) so he's got it all but with a price tag I think I priced one from him before and it was round $800 and some change drum to drum

Author:  Jopapa [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:15 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
I know a guy that has about 5 or 6 of them laying around but he is really expensive ( I just got 4 speed pedals +shifter for $300.00 from him this weekend ) so he's got it all but with a price tag I think I priced one from him before and it was round $800 and some change drum to drum
Holy crap. That thing had better have a SG in there.

Author:  icaneat50eggs [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:48 pm ]
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I would not cut a drive shaft until I could measure between the yokes with the rear installed.

Author:  ROADRUNNER7169 [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:56 pm ]
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I think all his stuff has sure grips in them I wanted to get a 7 1/4 from him about a year ago and it was a sure grip and he wanted about $400

Author:  Pierre [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:54 pm ]
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When I did my swap I followed what someone here told me, install it, push slip yoke into tranny until it bottoms out, pull it out an inch, then measure when on level surface. I came up with 1 3/4"

$800 is probably on the high side but you have to consider - if you are going to get a van/b/e/etc one to cut down you will have to pay for the cost of shortening it, perches worked if need be, axles, etc.

Watch the wheel bolt pattern too. Last year they came in A-bodies IIRC was 72 which means they were all SBP.

Author:  65 dartman [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 4:01 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Watch the wheel bolt pattern too. Last year they came in A-bodies IIRC was 72 which means they were all SBP.
You are absolutely correct on that.

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