I pulled my water pump on my '60 Slant to replace the gaskets...and found a metal impeller on the back. I need to remove this impeller to replace the backing plate gasket, and it looks like it is pressed on the shaft. I tried using a puller, but it didn't seem to budge.

My (1960) service manual shows a plastic impeller that you break to remove and service, so I'm guessing that this is not the original water pump. I'd like to re-use this pump because the bearings spin just fine.

Any suggestions for removing this impeller, or should I just replace the whole pump?

Thanks, again, for any and all advice.

Bill

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Bill

'60 Dodge Dart Pioneer

Vivian

Water pumps are cheap and widely available; just throw on a new one. If your metal impeller is cast iron, it would be removable by means of an appropriate puller. The plastic ones are "one use only". If your metal impeller is stamped steel...well, I'm not sure if those can be re-used or not, truth to tell.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hmm... on all the ones I've played with (only 3 or 4), you could wiggle the plate around enough to slide the new gasket in without too much trouble if you were willing to play with it long enough. They all had the stamped steel impeller.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

I'm assuming the original gasket was cemented to the metal plate and therefore cannot be cleaned off completely.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What he said......

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I managed to clean both sides up with a razor-blade scraper (there was just enough room)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Yeah, the impeller is stamped steel. I don't see any way of removing it. I soaked it with WD40 the last 2 night, and got on it pretty good with the puller, and it didn't move...and I didn't want to damage it.

The gasket is glued to the housing and not the plate, so maybe I got lucky. I'll see if I can clean up the gasket surfaces enough and worm a gasket between the plate and the housing.

Otherwise, I'll pick up a whole new unit.

Thanks again, guys, for all your help.

Bill

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Bill

'60 Dodge Dart Pioneer

Vivian

I had to replace mine while out of town in the dark. I think I paid maybe $30 or so from Advance. I noticed while disassembling that the bolts were a little used looking. OK, they didn't look like they were put back in their original holes. I think the threads on two of them may be chewed up a bit. Any suggestions on replacement bolts? And if I do replace them, can I do it one bolt at a time so I don't have to reseal the gasket?

Regular hardware-store bolts will be fine (stainless if you want to get fancy about it), and yes, you can replace them one at a time.

60 Pioneer: WD40 is useless as a penetrant!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

While on the subject, the waterpump on the '78 Volare engine I got from the JY had a socket headed capscrew instad of the standard hex heads in one of the holes. I'm fairly certain it was the original waterpump, so it got me to thinking; aside from making it a pain in the neck, what was their reasoning for doing such? My '82 wasn't like that, but I doubt it was unmolested.

_________________
Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion