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| Need some help with a 66 https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18134 |
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| Author: | slacker91 [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Need some help with a 66 |
alright guys, i know i dont post here much, but i could really use your help, im a bit in over my head. Im running a stock slant 6 170 in a 66 plymouth valiant i was driving along yesterday when i started getting a knocking sound from the engine, and my acceleration got real bad. it was a hot day, probably around 90, and the temp guage, instead of being at the line like it normaly is, was straight up. the knock speed up as i accelerated, so i pulled into a gas station and opened her up, and i was getting a bit of white smoke from the oil breather cap. i checked the fluids, and everything is were its supposed to be. me and my dad are thinking its a low end problem, either a bad connector rod, busted wrist pin, or...i donno... i could really use any help you guys can give me, i plan on testing the oil, cooling, and compression testing it tomarrow after that, i guess were pulling it out and going through it wish me luck, and thanks for any help |
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| Author: | Slant n' Rant [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:31 pm ] |
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check your oil for metal flakes or coolant. sounds like your bearings are toast. what was the oil pressure now or when it happened? I dropped the lower end out of a 91' thunderbird once by pushing it to far on open road the oil pressure drop was the first sign then came the knocking, sneaked it back home (nothing to lose at that point) until it just lost power and seized |
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| Author: | slacker91 [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
no change in oil pressure that im aware of, my indicator light does funny things. there was white smoke comming out of the breather cap, but whne i checked the oil dip stick it wasnt foamy or anything i wasnt really pushing it, just cruising around 50 |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:01 pm ] |
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How many miles are on this engine? Put an oil pressure gauge on it, how much pressure at hot idle and over 1500 rpm? Does it knock more when it is cold vs hot, does it knock at idle or above some RPM? DD |
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| Author: | Slant n' Rant [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:09 pm ] |
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connecting rod bearig failure most likely. don,t drive it! Coolant would appear as water droplets on your dipstick. If its parked at home drain the oil and inspect it for coolant or metal. by all means listen to the doctor he'll take you through it better than I can |
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| Author: | slacker91 [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
only 55k miles on it, the knock sounded worse hot, but easing it in to the garage it sounded really angery, and it was cold as can be at that point. it knocks at idle, and the knock speeds up as the RPMs go up, does it in neutral, drive, doesnt matter. i really dont want to start her up again, much less rev it, dont wanna risk makeing anything worse. tomarrow after work, ill drain the oil and check it, and report back i hope to god itsnothing too too serious, seeing as im a 18 year old kid working at pizza hut, and have hardly anymoney for this, seeing as i just got it on the road a couple weeks ago thanks again for your time and help Evan |
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| Author: | Eric W [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 12:09 am ] |
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Quote: it knocks at idle, and the knock speeds up as the RPMs go up, does it in neutral, drive, doesnt matter.
Classic sign of a rod knock. Sorry to say, its rebuild time, no band-aid fix for that. The journal on the crank shaft is probably out of round, so it will have to be ground down and over-size bearings installed, if its saveable.
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| Author: | Guest [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 4:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Same thing happened to my '63 170. Oil light was flickering and I kept driving. First a rattle, then a knock. Tried to get it back home. Engine lost power and seized. Had to take the head off and oil pan (no fun) to figure out how to get the engine to turn enough to get to the other 2 torque converter bolts to remove the engine. Removed a suspect looking rod bearing and got the engine to move enough. You may want to seize (pun intended) the opportunity to find a running 225. They are more plentiful and were an optional stock engine so the swap isn't too hard. you'll like the extra 55 C.I. and I'll bet the difference in cost, at this point, won't be much between rebuilding the 170 and replacing it with a running 225. Just my 2 cents. |
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| Author: | rock [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 5:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | Don't get panicked, look into one of the free engines on |
Hi! We all know the sinking feeling of at least suspecting some labor on the horizon, if not a big xpense and most if not all of us have had our time at Pizza Hut scale wages at the same time so we are in your camp! I got rid of a fine 62 convertible once because I didn't know enough to fix the clutch...so dumb...so don't panic. Pat is on my wavelength...there are engines on this forum to pick up free or real cheap, and on ebay too. If you need another engine now slide a 225 in there rather than pour money into a rebuild immediately, take apart the 170 at leisure and learn about it. You can change out a slant in a day even knowing little. Rent or borrow a cherry picker or use what I always did... a hoist and a chain between trees, but use GOOD stands under the vehicle. And don't feel as if you are a stupid car damager, someone likely geve it a hard time before you got it, if indeed the bearings are bad. rock '64d100 |
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| Author: | AndyZ [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 9:36 am ] |
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I had the same symptoms on a 225 slant in a 65 Fury III. Knocking sound worse when warm than cold, whitish smoke from the breather... At the time I was working a "Pizza Hut" type paying job and had to get rid of it. The guy who bought it thought he could drive it home a few miles and threw rod #5 though the side of the block along the way. "So it was a rod after all". In the mean time you may want to find another engine to swap into it to keep cost down and get back on the road quicker. I have tested the limits of a lot of different engines over the years and yes, you can kill a slant but it aint easy. |
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| Author: | slacker91 [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 11:20 am ] |
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wow, so it sounds like i killed the unkillable, huh? ive only had it on the road about 2 weeks at this point, and ive been treating it nice, so im guessing its not my fault. i think im gunna take all your advice and find a 225 to put in to it for now, while i rebuild the 170 doing the work for the rebuild isnt what scaes me, right now its the cost. im wondering if anybody has a cheap or even free running 225 that i could get soon? im on the east coast, pennsylvania to be exact, if anybody could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated. thank you for all of your help and time, Evan |
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| Author: | Slant n' Rant [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 11:22 am ] |
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I second the notion, You should have no problem getting a good slant for peanuts. Slants are good but alot of guys want v8s and rip em' out and almost give em away. I dont know how many parts fit a 225 from a 170 but theres alot so if the engines dead, take and keep anything you can salvage, head, oil pump, water pump, distributer, etc then youll always have spares and come out even finacially down the road. PS dont have anybody rebuild the 170 for you it will end up costing twenty times more than the swap and youll be kicking yourself for years. If you want to do it yourself youll need alot of high priced tools to do it. You would sleep well at night if you just stripped the 170 to the bone, got the 225 and called it a day |
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| Author: | slacker91 [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 11:24 am ] |
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if i can find a 225, i plan on putting the 170 on a dolly under my work bench, and keep it until i can find the money to rebuild it, then put it in something else...ive always liked these engines |
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| Author: | Eric W [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 11:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Nothing you did to hurt the engine. Time is not kind to old, low mile engines. They need to be ran, and it sounds like yours wasn't. Go over to Moparts.com and look in the for sale section. There is always somebody giving away slants....almost all on the east coast. |
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| Author: | AndyZ [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 12:18 pm ] |
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Hey Slacker91, Keep in mind that a 225 is 1" taller than a 170 so you will need to rework your header pipe where it attaches to the exhaust manifold. Everything else I believe should bolt up just right. But keep in mind: A 1967 and up car or any truck oil pan won't work but you can use the one off of the 170 with no problem. If you have a manual trans, you may need to keep the pilot bearing too depending on the year of the new 225. I would keep the 170 and eventually fix it so it stays with what sounds like a nice original car. Anyone have other suggestions/corrections? Good Luck. |
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