The factory manual seems to give some importance to the clip on the accelerator pump shaft and its setting above the bowl vent.

My refurb came with NO such clip. Will I die a horrible, lingering death if I don't get a clip soon?

If not, what other evil will befall me?

Missing parts: Just one reason remanufactured carbs are a pain in the tuchus.

That clip controls the bowl vent plate. Without it, you will tend to get hot start/hot idle issues.

How about a brand-new carburetor for your '65? This one's for a '66 170; will fit and work perfectly on your '65 225 and save you some gas, as well.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Strip a twist-tie of the plastic, and use the wire to make your own by wrapping/weaving it around the accelerator pump.............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

You'll get no argument from me on that. That either, but as you well know that knowledge doesn't fix anything. Thanks. I'm still trying to maintain the _option_ of a little extra get up and go since mine got up and went. That is, a 32/36 Weber, for one of which I blew a great opportunity. Looking, looking. . .

Thanks

Should work. Thanks.

There is something the manual doesn't say. It assumes that the clip is in the middle position and the link at the opposite (lower) end is in the middle position. Mine came with the lower link in the far-end position rather than the middle. Would that correspond to the upper or lower clip position?

Thanks

I can never remember that.........

I do remember the far-end position is the richest acclerator pump position, and the inside is the leanest.

And that if it's setup in the middle of the link, and the middle of the acclerator pump; that when you move it to the inside or outside hole on the link, it's obvious what position it should be on the acclerator pump.

And finally, when you do move the position of the link, you need to tweak the arm a little.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Thanks

I hate it when the MANUAL asssumes you already know something.

Just moved the link to the inside hole on my BBS.

The corresponding spot is the top clip position on the accelerator pump.


If I don't have any bogging problems I'm going to leave it there. Figure I might get slightly better gas mileage if it squirts less gas every time I hit the accelerator............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I wonder if I'm working on the wrong problem. I've not had bogging problems, per se, rather hesitation problems. By that I mean going from slow-down to acceleration I get a complete zero power for about half a second to a second - then a jerky surge. I've wondered how moving the link to the end hole as recommended is supposed to fix that.

Thanks

Does the accelerator pump work at all??????

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Well, it does when the carb is apart, so I guess it must when it's running. It's just like there's a bad looseness in the link or something. (I know that shouldn't be possible.)

Would it cause a hesitation if the floats were too low? While I was in there yesterday I found them very low and reset them. When driving later I was busy with other issues, but now that I think about it I don't recall the jerky transition yesterday.

Rant: The other issues? An idiot mechanic twisted off a cam bolt on my front end and they charged ME for his stupidity. Of course I must bear some blame. I should have gone in and loosened them before I let them touch it. (I did that on one side because I happened to be in there). And I should have screamed bloody murder when I saw the mechanic reach in there with a cheater rachet. Where do they hire old alignment guys as stupid as teenagers?

(My apology to existing intelligent teens.)

What do you think? Would a refurber set it for most pump out of necessity or out of stupidity? Maybe both?

And while I'm asking questions, what actual effect does a worn throttle shaft bore have? I've read that good reman people drill and shim these bores. (I could do that if I had access to the shims. Of course the drills can be had. And of course one could press in solid aluminum and redrill that. Not exactly blacksmith shop stuff, but if loose shafts were a big deal. . .)

Thanks