Just picked up a 1979 Plymouth Duster (Volare) with a 225 slanty and a 4 spd A-833 OD tranny.

Something in this tranny/clutch combo needs some HELP! I've got zero experience in dealing with this type of problem, but I'm not quite ready to dump it all on a mechanic quite yet.

Onto the problem(s):

The clutch pedal doesn't return to the top position. After changing gears it returns far enough to almost completely disengage, but not all the way to the top of the possible travel distance. You can put your foot underneath it and tap it, and it comes back with little effort. My newbie estimation is that there is a tired return spring somewhere on the assembly?

There is zero clutch "feel". The clutch pedal travel distance is extremely short, I'd like a longer travel distance personally, and assume this can be adjusted within reason. Yes?

Reverse is about impossible to find. The car currently has a Hurst T-handle, and a fella is supposed to pull up on the T in order to locate reverse. I've found it TWICE. Attempted elventy billion. Is this just me? When I did find it, the was some "slight" grinding in order to get it in.

The shifting pattern is SUPPOSED to be:
R 1 4
.. 2 3

Yes? I've found this pattern all over the 'net, yet can't imagine why it would be setup like this. Wierdest damn thing ever.

When the car is in neutral, there is a slight whine and vibration that I can only imagine is coming from the clutch "almost" engaging. I would assume that this would be remedied with the repair of the clutch pedal return problem. Any other bad ideas that it could be?

Give me a damn engine to work on and I'm happy as a puppy with two peckers, but these clutches have always confounded me. I'm still waiting on the Chilton's to show up in the mail, those have to be the greatest books ever, even better than porn.

The car looks pretty sharp even though the previous owner slapped on ridiculously oversized tires and traction bars on the rear. Anyone around Madison, WI with some 15X7's I can buy on the SUPER cheap? Just for rolling around the garage with, I just want to get these laughing "stocks" off.

My newbie estimation would wonder if your z-bar was OK. I had those symptoms and found the z-bar split open.

Yep...time to retire the 30 year old return spring, and hit up ebay/etc... for a FACTORY manual...

It's time to see if the disc is shot and the adjustment is all the way out...the pedal should engage/disengage the clutch with only 1" of play.


The handle is wrong, it's supposed to be a little black knob with the proper pattern... 'R' is up by your knee, 1 is middle and next to it, 2 is straight down, 3 is up and to the ashtray, OD is directly down from that....Unless the shifter bushings are shot, then you kind of slush and grind into each gear by feel....


Could be the clutch is engaged a bit, more than likely your tranny just needs to be renewed (and have the guts inspected for unusual wear).
Manual tranny assemblies are a pretty simple set of components to work on, it's bolt up in the correct sequence then adjust your linkage. The greatest books to have are a Factory Service Manual/Factory Electrical Manual/and the Factory Parts Book...with those you know every nut and bolt in your car...Chilton's will only tell you how to tune your car...


I suggest the "Articles" section from the main page...There's one on 4-speeds and one on clutches.

-D.Idiot







[/quote]

Wow, quick replies and good stuff guys!

I'll look for a factory manual, I suppose I showed my newbness with the Chilton remark. I've always found them extremely helpful, with the breakaway diagrams for repairing refurbishing parts.

Duster, that's the shift pattern that I had assumed was in the car. Like I said, I found that shift pattern scattered across the 'net when researching this whole clutch/tranny conundrum.

Please everyone, feel free to dump info on me, I would be interested in anything you have to say.

You have to pull up on the shifter while putting it in reverse. Try it

Much of the information they present is incorrect and/or not applicable to the model you're working on, making it very easy to create a lot of damage if you don't know any better. See Here.

_________________
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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The gate shifter you mention was the inland model I believe used in the 60's... the Hurst model used in the 70's rows the gears as is, if the bushings are shot pulling on the handle isn't going to help anything.

-D.Idiot

I was aware of this, and I can't get the shifter to pull up. I've tried everything I can think of, looks like it is a mechanical problem and not me being a dumba$$.

SlantSixDan, thanks again for reminding me that I need to get the other books. I've already purchased the factory service manual for 1979, and in the process of picking up the electrical one. I guess stumbling around blindly looking for info didn't lead me to the right direction until just now.

Thanks again for your suggestions and information guys, I don't suppose we could call this thread dead and let me get a mulligan on NOT being a typical know-nothing?

There's no such thing as a dumb question, believe me. I ask them ALL the time here. Maybe when they switched shifters they screwed up something. Do you have the original shifter?

Unfortunately not. I HAVE been able to get it to go into reverse twice. It is at least partially functioning, but evasive.

If your Clutch Torque Shaft or "Z-Bar" is broken as your clutch pedal symptoms POSSIBLY indicate, then it's possible that you're not getting the clutch entirely disengaged which will make shifting difficult at best.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I'm not a whiz with manuals, but wouldn't the clutch not fully disengaging as described make it a bear to get it in reverse, regardless of any shifter problems?

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

dakight, CStryker,

Yes, it would.

Can you get it into reverse with the engine off or is the problem that you can't find the reverse "gate"? (The shifter's pathway to reverse)

Could be that the linkage is loose and / or out of adjustment.
DD

Ummm, my 77 Aspen has the lift feature and it's stock