I replaced the filter and pan gasket in my 1973 904 Tourqueflight auto. The pan still has a minor leak, so I will replace the gasket again. I did a search to see if anybody uses a gasket sealer on this gasket. I didn't come up with any sealer answers, but I did come up with this quote in an old post from SlantSixDan

"Nice new pans with unwarped rails can be had from the dealer ("1999 Dakota with 42RE transmission"), and they even include a spiffy magnet to catch metallic shavings. Whether you go that route or install a used '64-up pan, save yourself a bunch of current and future hassle; stop by the Chrysler dealer and get the really nice double-seal, reusable rigid pan gasket P/N 4295875AC and use it instead of the floppy gaskets that come with the filters."

So I will ask, does anybody (or everybody?) use a gasket sealer for either the parts store floppy gasket or the P/N 4295875AC gasket? If so, what kind of gasket sealer do you use? I have some of the high temp RTV (orange color) silicone already at home.

One other thing, with the rigid gaskets, are the torque settings the same? (I think it is around 17 ft/lbs?)

Torque is the same w/old or new gasket. Don't use gasket sealers, the gasket is the seal. If it's still leaking, you've got a warped pan.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I used the mopar performance deep (2 qt extra) pan with the rigid gasket. Its a really nice gasket, rubberized, and has inserts so you can't overtorque it. Didn't use any sealer - doesn't leak.

I tried standard gaskets and torquing them to spec but they always bulged out and leaked quite a bit. This gasket I just torqued it until it felt right by hand.

If you want to splurge the aftermarket offers cast pans but they are pricey.

I went down to the Dodge dealer and picked up one of the gaskets. It looks great with the rubber seals on both sides and around the bolt holes. Will put it in after work, looks like a winner. I asked about the oil pans for the Dakota. The parts guy told me they are deeper than the old ones for my car. I didn't get it even though it was only $23.50, but my pan should be fine.

I was wondering, is there an advantage to the trans having more fluid with the deeper pan? Also, my gasket doesn't have any inserts, so I'm not sure what you are talking about there.

More fluid has the ability to absorb heat better. The inserts in the gasket are at the bolt holes. I don't remember if you can see them, but they are there and they prevent you from squishing the gasket. The pan will bottom out on the insert and the bolt will basically go solid and stop turning.

Did you check? I mean really check with a straightedge? They're often warped.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Nope. Now I am thinking I should get the pan also just so I don't have to drain my fluid again in case it is warped a little.

As far as the inserts, don't see any. The holes in the gasket are 3/8" diameter.

17 ft lbs seems too tight - this is just a sheet metal to aluminium connection with a whimpy cork gasket.
I do not have a 73 FSM - but looked up the spec in a 63 FSM
which says 150 in lbs (12.5 ft lbs) still seems like the stock cork gasket
will squish if you tighten it that much. I would say watch the gasket at the
edge of the pan as you tighten just as it gives a hint it is going to bulge,
stop. If you get to 12.5 ft lbs before the gasket bulges stop at 12.5.

Yea the inserts aren't visible as they are coverd by the rubber.

The pan I orderd isn't spec'd specifically for a dakota, its a MP unit 4007886AB. It comes with built in drain plug hole and plug, cheap gasket, spacer and filter. You need the filter spacer when using deeper pans so the pump can slurp up the cooler fluid at the bottom of the pan.

Is the dakota pan standard depth? If the dakota pan is deeper depth, and you order it by application, you probably won't get the filter spacer. And it may not come with a drainplug.

The MP kit is $53 at summit. Price it out at your dealer, imo worth it for the cost increase if you can wait for it to arrive.

I just changed my trans fluid and replaced the gasket a couple weeks ago. I bought the cork gasket from NAPA ($7.99). I finished cleaning the pan rail and trans mating surface with Prep-Sol. I sprayed both sides of the gasket with high-tack spray sealer and let it sit for a a little while until tacky. I choked all the way up on my 3/8" drive ratchet and evenly just snugged the bolts. No leaks. I guess the pan rails were straight. That's a lot of bolt, and a lot of them, for that sheet metal pan. I think too much torque is the biggest problem which causes warping in the first place along with squishing out the gasket.

At the next trans service I'm going to look into that Dakota pan with internal filter and drain plug. It sounds like the way to go. BTW, I used Autozone Dexron III. Seems to work well.

Also check the dipstick tube and the shift lever seals. These are known to get old and leak. The fluid runs out and right down to the pan rail / gasket, giving the appearance of a leaking pan gasket.
You have to clean the areas around the DS Tube and Levers to see if fluid is seeping out.
DD

I will check that, but I think I probably just torqued the cheesy cork gasket too much and not in the right pattern. I ended up taking Pierre's advice and orderd a 1 quart deeper pan. I got it from Jegs because I also ordered rims from them. I liked the idea of having the filter spacer along with the pan and having a threaded drain plug. By the way, I am going to use the rigid gasket. It looks pretty stout.