Quote:
One article here suggested using the Fram long filter due to better cleaning. This is very confusing.
No, It was 'they' who were confused thinking you can make a decent filter out of cardboard and glue and paying more for it 
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| 77 Aspen Sup Six AT Pt. 2 (Mo' betta) https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18449 |
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| Author: | mopardon [ Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 77 Aspen Sup Six AT Pt. 2 (Mo' betta) |
Thank you /6 Dan. Those fixes really helped, esp. being able to baby-step through it. I drove it today with only a bit of idle variance and hesitation. (ARCO gas??) I recorded the 'before' position of the mix screws as Plan B, but I also wanted to try a setup script that I found in /articles/supersix (by Reed iirc) to try to fine tune by ear and rev changes starting at 2 1/2 turns out. Does a more accurate method exist, incl. a thread here? One prob. that occured is that after idleing for a long period the engine apparently got so hot that after I shut it off (I forgot about using the heater as aux. cooling) and then tried to restart, a large burst of white smoke blew out of the carb. Then I had to prime it to start. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Maybe the intense heat vaporized all of the gas in the carb? I was very concerned about blowing a head gasket or something, but it started ok after priming. The oil and coolant look normal. The timing seems ok at 12. I have not yet found a previously-mentioned thread that covers about everything to do with adjusting the dist. Also, the mounting is reallly gunked. Anyone know if the gasket/seal will withstand a whole bunch of engine cleaner? I was about to install a Fram oil filter when I read that some people don't like Fram oil or gas. I did not think that much difference existed btw. them or Napa Gold, for example. One article here suggested using the Fram long filter due to better cleaning. This is very confusing. As always, advice will be greatly appreciated. |
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| Author: | Slant n' Rant [ Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 77 Aspen Sup Six AT Pt. 2 (Mo' betta) |
Quote: One article here suggested using the Fram long filter due to better cleaning. This is very confusing.
No, It was 'they' who were confused thinking you can make a decent filter out of cardboard and glue and paying more for it
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Jul 08, 2006 12:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
See http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html for oil filter info |
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| Author: | mopardon [ Sat Jul 08, 2006 12:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
SnR - Ok, so Fr** would be the not-so-good cardboard and glue, compared to brand _______? because ______, specifically? I would use TP in the old canister if I thought it was better, but I don't. I want the best cleaning, not the least expensive. I am trying to extend engine life as much as possible. Also, I think that I can kluge together a modestly-sized alum. rad shroud (front and back) to alleviate recent cooling problems. Does anyone recollect if it's worth the effort? Std 4-blade/2-row rad, No AC. Thanks as always. |
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| Author: | mopardon [ Sat Jul 08, 2006 12:11 am ] |
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Thanks for that oil filter link. I had not seen it before I replied. Don |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Jul 08, 2006 12:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I actually like the Purolators (or the Pep Boys one which is made by purolator (split them open and they were the same)) I use what used to be numbered as '1A' (which is a nice easy number to remember, don't know why they changed their part numbers as I can't ever remember what it is called now.....) |
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