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 Post subject: Camshaft?
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:15 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:22 am
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Location: Gainesville,Ga
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Ok a question for the experienced. I'm researching for parts on a motor build I've been thinking of, in the 250+ horse range with non-forced induction. The only cams that I can find, (off the self ), is Erson, Comp, and Clifford. I would like streetablity, but not a little more than stock streetablity I've got stock and for me it's just not enough. It's a 1970 motor so mechanical is what I'm after, and I've been looking at the Clifford 268* cam because Clifford is just 6 cyl., no v8 stuff. But I've seen some on here that have the Erson 270* cam. So maybe the 268* wouldn't meet my desire for power and the biggest cam from Comp is their 264* cam. This is going to going to be connected with a 904, but may have a manuel tranny in the future. I would like the biggest grind I can get away with while keeping the rpm range below 5500. I've got most of the other parts planed out, (i.e. 340 springs, 1.70in./1.44ex. valves, double roller chain, etc.), but I like to get some opinions on a cam.

But please keep in mind that this purposed build is on paper only and will be for a while, and I'm just curious on what my options are. But please point out anything I maybe over looking. Thanks :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:32 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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Location: Gainesville,Ga
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By the way it's a 225. :lol: Sorry I forgot , I was excited. :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:09 pm 
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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You said automatic trans, but might change to stick. With an auto the converter will make a difference. You said nothing about gear ratio, or compression ratio. These will all make a huge difference in what cam will work, and what cam won't.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:11 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:32 pm
Posts: 379
Location: California
Car Model: 1964 Dart GT
I have a 225 w 1.75/ 1.5 valves, and a Comp Cam 264. Your valve choice is good. You will need more cam for 250 hp. If I were building another n/a motor for the street, I would go with an Erson 270 or custom grind @ 102 degrees. (Most Cams are made at 106-112 degrees)
I would definately BOWL PORT and shave my head, MSD 6 or better ignition, Dutra Duals, and put in a 2200+ stall converter. I am sure there are other opinions on what to do but I hope this helps.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 2:14 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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Location: Gainesville,Ga
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Quote:
With an auto the converter will make a difference. You said nothing about gear ratio, or compression ratio.


If with auto, 3000 stall. And was thinking 3.55 rear gears maybe 3.73s.

Not sure on the compression ratio. Would like 9.5-10.0. Would shave the head .090" and may shave the block just enough to clean it up and have a flat surface. And may do the non-stroker stroker from Doug Dutras article using the 198 connecting rods and 2.2 pistons.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 2:42 pm 
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Speaking of these 198 connecting rods, where can we get them and what should we pay. Are these the rods that Doug sells. (as I vaguely remember)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 3:09 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:22 am
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Location: Gainesville,Ga
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Quote:
Speaking of these 198 connecting rods, where can we get them and what should we pay.
I've found this sitehttp://www.kanter.com/p24-mon.html#mo2


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 3:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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I have paid between $10-15 per rod, and then had the resized and ARP bolts put in. I end up with about $40 a rod that way.

Dart270 and I have both run cams with over .550 lift on the street. Don't be chicken. :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 3:36 pm 
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The Comp 264 is too small to even bother with.

I have 1.72 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves with 9.25 compression and the cam is bearly in the game. Next time I would go with the Erson 270 at a minimum......you still wont get 250 HP.

Hell...I run a 270 dur cam in my work truck....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 3:43 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:22 am
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Location: Gainesville,Ga
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Quote:
Dart270 and I have both run cams with over .550 lift on the street.
Really?! :lol: Was this in a driver? Was it a custom grind?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I ahve run a Comp Xtreme .504/.511, Mopar .528 and a Clifford .558/300.

Lou's is a custom grind.

The long stroke and tiny little ports and valves lets you get away with lots of cam. :shock:

I also drove a 3800 stall on the street too. :lol:

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 Post subject: cam
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:54 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:30 pm
Posts: 118
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My 250 h.p. engine has a 268/272 cam, but needs a 10" 3,500 stall converter, even with my 3.55 rear axle ratio and Detroit Locker, with 904 trans. I have ported heads, larger valves, roller rockers, decked block, MSD, 500 cfm 4 bl and Offy manifold. The engine pulls hard to 6,000 rpm or higher, but needs the 3,500 10" converter for lowend grunt. The engine gains real power at about 2,500-2,700 rpms, but not much toruqe below that with the converter it has. It has Dual Dutra Duals and sounds wonderful with turbo mufflers and dual 2.25" pipes to the rear. It'll do close to 100mph in the quarter with an 11" torque converter which only brake-stalls at 1950 rpm, so a 3,500 rpm 10 "stall converter will help substantially. Good luck with your upgrades.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:25 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 1:01 pm
Posts: 482
Location: waynesboro PA
Car Model: 72' Dart Swinger / 62' Valiant
I gotta agree with slantzilla. we have also ran a 528 lift mopar cam on a daily driven street car, and we are now running a 570 lift custom ground cam. on the street. While these may be bigger than what you are looking for, I would definately go with a "big" cam if your looking to get 250 or more NA horsepower.

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62 Plymouth Valiant Race Car 2170# 11.008 @ 117.65 MPH 1/4 Mile Best
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 Post subject: cam profile?
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 4:26 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:30 pm
Posts: 118
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Ryan, what is your cam profile, and what speed did you run in the quarter mile @ 15.6? I've run 15.6 @ 95 mph with my 11" converter which is a dog in the first 60 feet, so I have a 10" 3,500 stall on the way. My first personal slant six was a new '64 Signet 225 with A833 4 spd. In stock form I was turning 17.6 @76 mph and beating lots of small v8's; I couldn't beat a 331 hemi, though. Thanks.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 6:30 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:22 am
Posts: 20
Location: Gainesville,Ga
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Thanks a lot for the feed back guys! :D It looks like I may have to go with a custom grind to get the power I'm after, will still research.

By the way I happened upon a Direct Connection part number for a cam kit, P3690768 and the cam "I.D." is ST21-110. It has a duration of 286* and .520" lift. It looks like a cam that comes close to some of the cams that some of you guys are running and maybe a cam that I might want to try. Is this still a valid part #, is this cam still available? Some of you mentioned a mopar .528 cam, maybe better than the .520". Is that a custom grind or off the shelf?

Flyntgr please let me know how that 10" converter works out.


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