Howdy,

Well, El Toad's slushpump spit the front seal out, so I figure she's telling me to finally get around to changing over to a gearbox as I've been planning to do for (mumble) years now.

I've collected most of the parts she'll need anyway, so ...... here goes. The only thing I plan to cobble up myself is the bellcrank ("Z-bar" for you younger folks), as a stocker's not going be strong enough for the Aussie clutch I'll use.

First up was the yanking and comparisons ......




Then the pedal swap (Thank you, Mr Kight) ......
A question I need to ask is "Which of the two firewall holes available does the pedal link go through in a stocker, the upper or the lower?".




Next, the flywheel, ring gear, and new lockplate (Thank you Mr. Covalt).
Note also, the extra clutch can bolt holes for the Oz can ......




And a close-up of the lock plate in application, for those interested ......




This's where she stands at the moment, awaiting such time as I can squeeze out of my float schedulings to continue on'er.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Looks good! Glad to see the plate installed. I don't think the bolts will shake loose any time soon!

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I cant see any reason a stock z bar would not hold up to the pressure plate you are using.


If the z bar you posses is relatively similar to the 67-76 A body and f Body parts then it should be fine.

If you are concerned about it, then I recommend adding reinforcements to it and reinforcing the flats as the weld to the main tube. Roll cage Triangle Gussets could work well here, and then fully weld on both sides of gusset and that would be plenty strong in my backyard engineer's head.

I might turn my attention to the Clutch fork pivot if you really have a heavily sprung pressure plate.

My dad told me stories of his breaking in the 69 340 GTS that he bought brand new. He worked in the Mill at the time and was able to heat treat the replacement part.

Good Luck,

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yeah, they look to be there for awhile now.


Greg, I don't have one in hand, but have two thoughts regarding the device.
As I recall, the stockers have only butt welded arms. I prefer a bit more structural security, so typically back-strap such joints on the tension side.
Also, I generally lean toward sturdier bushing materials than nylon, usually metals.

It's a simple cobble of course, and one I seem to wind up doing fairly often.
Perhaps just a case of overkill, but it eases the mind.

Thank you, I'll take that pivot issue in mind, as I'll likely have to diddle the stocker anyway. The Oz unit has the diaphragm fingertips closer to the disc than a stocker does (thus the t/o bearing & carrier kit they offer).

Perhaps have to make up something of my own again. Had to on the HAMBster, when I re-built the arm set-up for pull intsead of push.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Last of the float crap finally done, and FINALLY got back to it.

Here's the clutch linkage, the Oz p/p's enough stronger than a stocker that I elected to cobble up my own stuff. Didn't help that I decided to use a long arm I had.
Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the arm's pivot stand-off I made from a water pump fan blade spacer.

Oz clutch ......


Pedal end ......


Bellcrank ......


Arm end ......


Shifter linkage ......


Shifter mount ......


Column drop (cobbled up a 3/4" thick crescent moon spacer) ......


New office furniture ......


Next up: a bit longer lever; new floorboards; and eventually some carpet.
And of course, a new instrument panel face, sans push button holes.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

FWIW, I actually had the tube tear on my 65 despite the gussets. This was with a truck clutch.
I ended up cutting a truck z-bar down to size - it had much greater wall thickness.

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Yeah, I recall the bell crank from one of my previous toads, and though it never gave me any trouble it seemed marginally strong at the time. Of course that was also only a Borg style stocker.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Nifty stuff, tho I still lament the removal of your 2bbl conversion pics from your photo site.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

nice cobblings there


keep on roddin'

It's funny that you'd say that, although all the data from the "better" clutch companies suggests that the diaphragm clutch uses less pressure to release than the comparable type borg and beck style clutch .. which typically translates to less pedal pressure, especially when the overcenter spring has been removed and can't help when the pedal is near the floor.

I would be careful though, I remember talking to Dave about his wagon and he got a custom clutch for it and knew something was wrong when he had to use a 10' cheater to get it to actuate...and later calling the manufacturer, they put the wrong springs in the pressure plate...


Keeping my fingers crossed that this will solve some of the clutch issues we've gotten with the stock clutch size, hi-performance replacements.

Dan, the deletion of that set was due to another of my occasional fumble-thumbed internet stupidities. I'll put it back together one of these days, as I do still have the stuff in my own files.

D.I, I've had exactly that experience with prior diaphragm conversions, but this one's definitely different (perhaps due to being just flat out stronger).
I popped one of these in my HAMBster last year, with the same results; much stronger pedal; and much better grab & hold. In fact, that was part of my predication for the Toad's mod. So now I figure to find out how well it lasts in regular service on the street.

Keeping my fingers crossed as well.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

Since I am flogging mine racing, I will continue the big block/11" clutch conversion on my rig to compare in price and whether the extra surface area will allow enough cooling to keep a non-organic clutch from "smearing" on a stocker type flywheel under duress...(and if the bigger flywheel will make shift transitions longer due to the weight of the flywheel vs. RPM drop for the dogteeth/synchros....I do expect with the heavier flywheel the imparted torque in the heavier car may require better rear tires and limiter bars on launch...)

...... or "smoke runs".

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

if you is smokein' you aint going

Yeah, I know. But it sure is fun.

I'm putting together a pair of hard hide (cheap p/u tires) wheels for the 'Brick, for post competition smoke runs at Eagle Field.

I'll try to get some vids when I get it together.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link