Brief lead-in - the carb has 30K mi since the last rebuild. Today (on the car) I adjusted the metering rods and the pump per the spec sheet. The float level looks good as is. This 77 Super runs even better now. The starting and low speed balk is gone.

I installed a new inlet fitting and needle valve by just tightening the new fitting to about the same torque as the old, i.e. very snug to the gasket.
The engine seemed to run fine. But afterwards I found a small card from the last shop rebuild stating:

'The gas inlet fitting on this carb. is also the needle valve. DO NOT REMOVE OR TIGHTEN THIS FITTING. Any movement of this fitting will offset the float level. Be sure to use two wrenches', etc. (which I did).

Did I mess something up when I just removed the old fitting and installed a new needle and fitting?
The old fitting was real tight against the carb, and I did not see any
other way of doing it.

A posting by Tophat about rocker bolt torque on Wed. 7/12/06
recommended cleaning out the bolt holes to prevent bottoming.
Since I am going to change the gasket soon, I welcome suggestions about the best way to clean out those dinky bolt holes. Q-tips with
engine cleaner? This might seem trivial, but the rocker seeps oil
and I want to get this right.

I am considering swapping out the OE coil for something a bit hotter
but not expensive. Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks very much.

Since the inlet needle valve is seated in the inlet fitting and operated by the float inside the carburetor, by replacing it you have probably altered the float level. The correct thing to do would be to check the float level and adjust as needed.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

to clean out the bolt holes, I use a straight metal pick (looks like a small ice pick or dental pick) to get the crud loose. I follow that with brake cleaner. I take the "straw" that comes with the can and bottom it out in the hole then a few shots till it flushes out everything and comes out clean. following with compressed air is nice but not nessary, though it can save on brake cleaner.

the whole key is to make sure the tightens against the cover before the bolt bottoms out. gunk in the hole is just like having a bolt to long.

I got my set of 4 picks at advance auto for 5 or 6 dollars

hope this helps

tophat

I thank you both for the advice.

Anyone have thoughts about reliable, hotter-than-OE coils or is this sufficient for normal use in non-breaker igns? The one I have is truly OE from '77. I thought about gambling at the local parts house, but I remembered a note (iirc) in a buildup article by DD (one with the crank compare) in which a stock coil was used.
This is the extent of my knowledge.

Thanks.

If you're running stock ignition, there's no especial reason to use other than a stock coil. They don't run out of sparks after any particular age or mileage. If the coil fails, then replace it.

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