Hi Folks,

This morning saw my d100 sliding down the big roads for the first time in a year. This would not have happened without advice here from Slantsix Dan, reed, lou, charrlie, dusteridiot, doctor dodge and many more. I did the distributor governor brazing and filing and was pleased to find that I ran out of road in third gear...gonna have to get on an interstate out of town to hit fourth, and engine never stopped pulling through 4000 from 0...as an earlier post said...HOLY COW...I got hold of a rocket in a truck!

But I want to tell you all what caused my nearly 2 month brake problem. The solution was found in a moment of inspiration and a caliper...I had been given the wrong pads for the disc conversion! I had beensold metallic pads that totaled 1.247 inches thick....and after multiple agonies I want to detail below so someone else may not have to suffer similarly, I thought...if there is a .005 tolerance (FSM) I wonder what my pad thickness is? Well the RIGHT pads were 1.213, and that .034 made all the difference in dragging pads overheating and cruising trouble free. Course that is nearly 7 times the allowable tolerance...

First big brake (pun intended) through was with Slant six Dan telling me to look at the port relationships. It turns out I was given the WRONG master cylinder, one that had the small reservoir in front of the pair of ports... a Raybestos MC39017. This MC has the large port on the rear. So my disc brakes feeding off the front port had the small port and could never work even though I followed directions exactly.

After getting the new (wrong) MC I in the all new brake system I vacuum bled it, pressure bled, helper bled with me watching bleeders, bled by me with new speed bleeder screws finally installed, then bled with those screws in and me watching with a helper pushing. Each time there was air in lines. Each time I bench bled master cylinder (5 times and had air each time in rear port). Each time the master cylinder would have a rock hard stroke stop on the bench.

Finally for a little while I got the air out of lines and wheel cylinders and calipers, but with all bleeder screws closed the brake pedal went halfway to floor to start and leaked down a bit on steady application. So I convinced myself the MC was bad and took it back. They said "uhhhh, that isn't the right cylinder, you need a Raybestos MC36306" and sure enough it had the large port on front and small on rear! Go back, same problem with leakdown, same process, same result, bad MC. Now remember these are NEW! So back again, this time order (7 day delivery) NEW Genuine Factory part, not a Raybestos and in meantime find a link on the web that reports these Raybestos MC's are known to be be bad out of the box!

New MC comes in, front disc brakes too tight and overheat. Undo ALL work again, pressure check hoses in both directions for even flow, then think, I wonder how thick the pads are...and as they say, the rest is history. Now that I am learning how and doing this distributor recurving thing, I am feeling really froggy..all from advice on the slant six forum. Thanks to all,
a pretty happy
rock
'64d100

Glad to hear it all worked out. How about some pictures?

Good to hear it, Rock. I want a ride sometime, eh?

Lou

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