Greetings -

I installed a new FedMog pump (just in case - OE one had not failed that I know of), but now the screw-in line fitting leaks. I tried a redo, even running until hot to ensure tightness; and it is not stripped. (Yes I know, not too smart running dripping gas near the ignition.) Do other /6rs somehow prep the line flange or pump cup before attachment? Should I have lapped it in, if possible? Or does a sealing agent exist, such as Teflon tape for plumbing joints? Suggestions are most appreciated.

(Thanks to /Dan and cstryker for the invaluable install hints. Not easy
for me with four thumbs, but you got me through it.)

Also, yes, I considered the fuel line mod - but as hot as this engine
has been, I can hold the steel line at the manifold barehanded. Whereabouts does the 'fuel boiling' problem occur that I have read so
much about here? I am just trying to understand the problem.

Re: see-thru plastic filters - A recent post suggested that these filters
might be responsible for seemingly-common filter percolation, and that changing to a hardier metal (ergo, opaque) filter, might solve that.
How do you know if you can't see the fuel level? With or w/o the pump
leak, this /6 seems to run well with only 1/2 in. of fuel in the filter.
Can someone explain that to me? IIRC, a DD post mentioned 4-7 lbs of pressure at the needle. I'd appreciate any feedback.

(To those who suggested it, my FSM is still somewhere in the wind so I need to consult a higher authority.)

Thanks very much in advance.

Don

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'77 Aspen Super

Is the leak between the fitting and the fuel pump, or the fitting and the fuel line? The fitting and the pump would be improved with some pipe dope, as it is a tapered fitting that typicaly requires that. If the leak is between the fitting and the line there must be a bur,or foreign material of some kind on either the pump or line that is preventing a good seat of the line to the pump. The fuel line has a flare that mates to a male brass fitting on the pump, and they are supposed to compress against each other and make a complete seal without the need of a gasket or compound of any kind.

It is not a big job at all to simply replace all that with a fitting on the pump to accept rubber fuel line, and eliminate the steel. You are only talking about $10-$20 worth of parts and 30 minutes at best, and you are done with it. You will still need pipe joint compound between whichever fitting goes into the pump.

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No. It is not a tapered fitting, it is a 5/16" inverted-flare fitting. The threaded collar is not tapered and no pipe dope is required (or smart) at such junctions.
That's one possibility. Another is that the steel line is cracked at the flare, or the pump's casting is defective.
You will not need or want pipe joint compound at this junction.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

No prep, lapping, teflon tape, pipe dope or sealing agent of any kind is needed at this junction. If you have a leak, you have a hard-parts problem; see my post above this one.
When you shut down the engine, it's hot and the radiator fan stops blowing air over it. Heat is transferred into the metal fuel line at the points where it is clamped to the engine and where it passes over/near especially hot parts of the engine. This boils the fuel in the line, forcing it into the carburetor (percolation). That wastes gasoline and causes hot-start problems.
Yes, if you relocate the filter to a cool location per the fuel line mod thread.
How do you know what if you can't see the fuel level? There's little diagnostic value in scrutinising the level to which fuel fills up the filter. It's normal for it not to fill up the filter at all.
Factory spec is 3½ to 5 psi on the slant. The percolation can easily push this up high enough to overwhelm the inlet needle.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Sam and Dan for the info.

The leak is where the flanged line is screwed into the pump fitting. It
did not leak at all before I replaced the pump. (If it wasn't broke, etc., but I did not want to get stranded if the OE failed.)

This sounds like I need to check out the line flare and the pump line seat
for a burr or other problem. I checked for this before attachment and
did not see or feel anything wrong with the actual contact surface. The pump seat looked fine, too. (Nothing visually wrong).

I will emory the line and try to re-attach before removing the pump to check the seat. If this does not work I will have to re-install the old pump.
(Carter 0 -1994, whatever that means).

Do most people remove the coil to work on the pump? I am not exactly clear about where/how the coil clamp is attached to the bracket. Removing enough crud to detach the pump took about 3 hours.

Dan - thanks very much for the explan. to my line/filter questions. That is exactly what I wanted to know. Now I finally get it!!! I will review the
line mod text to see what I need.

Gratefully yours,

Don

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'77 Aspen Super

That coil is kind of a pain in that none of the screws are easily accessible from above. If you go from below, they are easier to see. Just loosen one of the large bolts that holds the clamp to the block, and then loosen the stove bolt that tightens the clamp around the coil, and then slide the coil downward and out of the way. You can leave everything hooked up for this. It should go down far enough to be not in your way at that point.

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I found it easier to remove the coil and clamp as a unit (from above)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

It kind of depends on the year of your car, and the accessories it has. If you can't get to it from above, try stickying your head under the car in front of the front wheel, and peaking up at the coil. It might be right there where you can put a wrench on it.

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I know from experience that the f bodies Aspen / Volare are extremley hard to get to the coil / fuel pump area. Take off the alternator and related brackets.


You might have some mor luck if you remove the lower rad. Hose too.

They are hard to get from underneathe beacuse the k frame is so massive you cant get past it.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack