I haven't removed the drums from the car yet, but the tires are 12 years old, so the condition of the brakes are likely to be poor. However the tread on these 12 year old tires have worn only about 15%-20%. My thoughts are to replace the shoes and all hardware. The drums I hope to keep. I did measure the drums from the mounted position and they measure about 9.5 on the outside. I would think I have 9" drums. Rears are about the same measurement. The wheel cylinders seem to be filled with silicone according to the little sticker that was applied to the fire wall above the master cylinder. It reads "Add Silicone Only".
What are your thoughts on the wheel cylinders? If I find them to not be leaking do you think they're OK? Your thoughts on the drums? I don't feel a brake pulse. I do get a brake pull. The rubber hoses I'd like to replace. I kind of feel that if I am going to open the brake system for the hoses, I might as well to the wheel cylinders too.
This ones for Dan. I like to shop at Napa. You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers for these parts would you?
One more thing does the front drum come off without removing the wheel bearings?
One more thing again. I'd like to replace the studs in the front with ones that are about 3/8 longer. (like the rear ones) Getting the lugs started in the Cragars on the front is almost impossible. Can I just pound these out and get longer ones?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

not speaking from an incredible wealth of knowledge, but i'd say if the wheel cylinders are leaking, replace them, and soon...
i just had my passenger side front (9" drums all around) wheel cylinder leak fluid all over my shoes, eating them all the way down to the metal. on top of that, i had a hose burst ( i'd say replace those too), leaving me with no brake pressure for the drive from virginia beach to front royal (four hours). i just took the cylinder off this afternoon to discover the burst hose. if your car's wheel cyl isn't too far off from my dart's (i'm just speculating cause i have no clue), autozone has the cheapest, napa was at the top of the list for highest price (although i don't like autozone, i am pressed for cash). i replaced the other side about 7 months ago with one from advance (autozone- $17, advance- $25)- just FYI.
fix it right, and fix it quick, don't end up like me

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My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.

Has the car been parked a long time too? Not good at all for rubber. When I bought my '65 it had NOS tires from bias days (still had the little things sticking out all over the tread) and had been parked many years. They were bald in 700 miles.

I've seen fluid in such bad shape rust rings formed in the wheel cylinders if the car was parked a long time. If they're clean and smooth (don't have rust) I'd use kits.

I think the car sat for a long time. I bought it about 4-5 months ago in North Caralina and drove it home. The first time I hit the brakes it pulled to the right. After that it didn't pull again the whole trip home (Florida). In Just the last few weeks its started to pull again.
The tires are bad. Jacked it up the took the wheels and tires to the shop for new ones.(BFG 215-79-14) Before I reinstall I wan't to go through the brakes.
I ve heard the silicon fluid and water like to separate and rust the brake system.
Should I have problems finding new parts for the 9" system?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

If you are doing a brake job, you need to replace or rebuild the cylinders. As the old brakes have worn the shoes were adjusted outward, manually or by self adjusters. Even though the adjustment is on the bottom, the pistons in the cylinders move outward and stay outward with the adjustment. Even though they are not leaking when you inspect them, the seal cups will get jammed inward over the crud and corrosion that has formed in the cylinder when you put on your new shoes. The odds that they will not leak are slim. On an old car that I do not know the history of, I assume the worse when it comes to what new brake parts might be needed. The drums may be ok, but I would plan on doing everything else.

I've found everything I need at Rock Auto:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php

Took off the drums and found the wheel cylinders not leaking and the shoes worn about 30%. There was some trace cracking on the shoes.
Decided to go all the way with the brake job. Bought new wheel bearing and seal, shoes F/R, spring hardware F/R , 4 drums, wheel cylinder kits F/R, little hone tool, 2 front hoses, rear hose, 32oz DOT5 silicone brake fluid. Total cost with tax $388.32
My drums looked good but there was a small rust ring on the lip and it was going to cost $10 per drum to turn them, so $15 more to get new one seemed like the way to go.
Do you think 32 oz fluid will be enough to get the job done. This silicone fluid is pricey. Its got silicone now.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Once you're sure you've got the crud out of the system, you can recycle the fluid.

Dot 5 will hold onto a bunch of teeny tiny bubbles, so it's going to take awhile to bleed the system...........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes