Well, could somebody at least tell me the basics of degreeing cams or some personal experiences.
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| Timing chain replacement https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19103 |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Timing chain replacement |
It has come time to replace the timing chain on my Duster. It has over 8* of slack in it. Should I just go dot to dot when replacing my chain or degree it in (something that I have absolutely no clue about) I read some of the articles on this site and talks about offset bushings, centerlines, and all of that other stuff totally confuses me. Is it okay for me to go dot to dot? If not, can't I just advance the cam a few degrees by turning by hand? This is something I know virtually nothing about, so any help would be appreciated. How much does a degree wheel and all the stuff that goes with it cost? Need copy of Degreeing cams for dummies. |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, could somebody at least tell me the basics of degreeing cams or some personal experiences.
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you just wnat to go basic - then with a new gear set and chain dot to dot will be fine - Consult your factory service manual for this. The tools needed for degreening could be found at summit/jegs/mancini rcing type suppliers. List of tools Degree wheel Pointer - (Can be homemade) .001" Dial Indicator with magnetic base. Offset Bushing pkg - same as B/RB/Hemi. I was like you Jeb, Was not knowing all the voodoo in cam degreeing. The dial wheel from mopar performance has Some pretty good instructions on it for finding The cam centerline. (this is the Biggest part of the degreeing Procedure). Finding the cam centerline when trying different bushings is essentially The degreeing process. I did a google search on the subject too, and there are some good carcraft/hot rod/moparmuscle, etc. articles that can get you going. I really reccommend degreeing with the motor out of the car and the head off. I guess it could be done in the car, but I feel accuracy could be comprimised when taking readings. Also - Do not try to degree by hand. You will be a tooth off on the gear and the car might not run. Use DOt to dot. Greg |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Why not to use dot to dot... |
Quote: Use DOt to dot.
Just as an FYI having played with a fair amount of timing sets: Currently- The Melling set I've used in the past the dot-to-dot method made the cam .5 to 2 degrees retarded (this is ok for the 1 barrel stock build). The Dynagear roller chain was 2 degrees advanced. THe MP roller setup I had was 4 degrees retarded (makes up for the 4 degrees in the MP grind????) I just used a Cloyes silent chain and the dot on the cam gear was 180 degrees out (I had to use a 16" steel rule to line up the dots or drill another hole....) I also have a Cloyes double roller in the Hpak duster current and it replaced the MP chain (cam walk wasn;t kind to the MP setup)...it is setup exactly like the MP set. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:13 pm ] |
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Thanks guys, I will get a basic set and go dot to dot. I will save all the degreeing for when I do a rebuild on this engine and change the cam. All I want now is to get my baby back on the road and not have to worry about jumping time going down the dragstrip. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Why not to use dot to dot... |
Quote: The Dynagear roller chain was 2 degrees advanced.
Where'd you get the Dynagear set, under what Dynagear P/N, and what'd it cost?
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| Author: | Jeb [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:23 pm ] |
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Yeah, I wanna know too. I wanted to advance my cam a few degrees anyway in order to boost my bottom end. |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:37 pm ] |
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Hey Dan I did some searching and Dynagear has been acquired by Cloyes. Don't know if we will still be able to get the sets or not. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:55 pm ] |
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Quote: Hey Dan I did some searching and Dynagear has been acquired by Cloyes
Boy, that blows. I am sick and tired of dumbcluck MBAs running company after company into the ground, sucking the $$$$ out of them and then running off for their next money-fuelled adventure, leaving the rest of us to deal with the mess. 
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| Author: | Jeb [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey what about the Comp Cams timing set? Has anybody used one of these yet? |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Dynagear... |
Quote: Where'd you get the Dynagear set, under what Dynagear P/N, and what'd it cost?
I got mine back in 2001 when my local Dodge dealership failed to get me one of the last MP sets (oddly, when NAPA said they couldn't get the Dynagear version, then Earhardt Dodge sent me an MP, then NAPA suddenly came up with a Dynagear set....I ended up with two...and ended up using both...)...Price of the dynagear set was in the $50 range if I remember right.The dynagear box wasn't marked, oddly the sprockets had the same numbers the Cloyes roller sets had (like S-338,etc...)... A Cloyes Roller set would be OK in my book too if available, just watch your dots. -rob OOOFFF...had to edit, I remembered I jotted down the Dynagear number off the order slip in one of my Duster Builder notebooks: Dan the number was dynagear 168SA-7 
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:13 pm ] |
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Thanks! |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:35 pm ] |
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Dan, let us know when you find a source for this timing set. |
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| Author: | Nomad [ Mon May 19, 2014 10:11 am ] |
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Digging up old threads… I know this has probably been discussed a few times before, but I didn’t find a definitive answer. Here’s the deal : my van needs at least a new timing chain and cover seal. Since I’m on a budget and don’t put enough miles on it each year to justify a double roller timing chain, I bought the cheap Cloyes replacement. I know you guys recommend degreeing the cam when replacing the timing chain ; but since the new sprockets have the same teeth count on that one than stock, can’t we just do a side by side comparison and if the dots are in the exact same place on both get away with a basic dot-to-dot installation? Don’t need extra power or extra anything right now, I just want to keep the truck running well. I hope it’s not a too dumb question but since I won’t do the timing chain replacement myself, I’d like to keep it simple for my mechanic by not doing the cam degreeing procedure and spend the extra money on some other upgrades… Thanks. |
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