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'Bout to choke over choke.
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19200
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Author:  HyperValiant [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:49 pm ]
Post subject:  'Bout to choke over choke.

I just installed a super six setup on my 63 Dart 170 with a 170 cube engine and 3spd trans.The car runs much better,has more power,and gets same or slightly better mileage.......BUT.....the damn thing will not hardly start when cold.I have a new choke thermostat and the choke is set properly but it just will not start like my 1920 did (2 pumps hit the key and she was idling great) .The engine idles after first start and continues to start and idle great until she cools off again.
The carb is a Carter bbd that is from a 79 Aspen and has never been rebuilt but was pulled from a running 87000 mile engine and other than starting, performs flawlessly,a rebuild is in the very near future.It is mounted on a cast iron super six intake of un known vintage and no vacumm leaks are present.
Any help is much appreciated.

HyperValiant

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 8:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

Check for interference between the air cleaner housing and the choke plate or lever. Sometimes the bottom of the air cleaner prevents the choke closing all the way. Open the throttle and manually move the choke pushrod while holding the air cleaner body down onto the carburetor (lid removed) to make sure the plate easily swings all the way closed. The 2bbl setup is even more sensitive to carb base gasket thickness than the 1bbl setup, so make sure you're running the correct one, which is about 3/8" thick. Make sure the vacuum lines that need to be plugged off for use on your '63 are plugged off, and the ones that mustn't be plugged off, aren't. Can't advise further without knowing what you have/haven't plugged off. This business of putting on a used 87k mile carb without rebuilding it, I don't like. It is long overdue for a cleanout and kit. Do the Fuel line mod to make sure fuel won't siphon out of the supply line overnight. Note that the 2bbl choke thermostats do not work properly without the electric heater element hooked up via the choke modulator. Better to skip all that and put on a #1232 Electric choke kit.

Author:  vynn3 [ Wed Aug 16, 2006 5:47 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Check for interference between the air cleaner housing and the choke plate or lever. Sometimes the bottom of the air cleaner prevents the choke closing all the way.
What Dan said. I had the same problem you describe, because I rotated the air cleaner to that the inlet was closer to "facing front". Rotated it back to 3-o'clock, and the choke works fine.

Author:  HyperValiant [ Wed Aug 16, 2006 8:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

I checked the air cleaner and there was no interference,the thermostat modulator is present and functioning. After examining the choke when its cold ,it doesnt work when the pedal is depressed,its like the rod going from the thermostat to the choke plate "locks"itself open after it cools down,but if I manually close the choke and give it one good pump it it will not start unless I hold it to the floor and crank the hell out of it.Its almost like it flloods on on one pump shot but other wise it runs extremely well and like I said its giving better mileage and more power than the 1920.
I think that the carb really needs rebuilt and I ordered a kit and float today,so hopefully this weekend I can rebuild it.Is there somthing in the carb that could be stopped up that prevents it from starting well but still allows it run well? Before the super six,it was challenge to get it to interstate speeds in a timely manner,now it is no prblem whatsoever.
I also performed a plug check and they are practicly textbook perfect.
Im going to rebuild the carb and work from there,is there anything that I need to pay special attention to(the throttle shafts seem good,does not indicate a vacumm leak when sprayed with carb cleaner).

Thanks Dan and Vynn for youre help and suggestions.

HyperValiant

Author:  75duster [ Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

are you sure its the 2bbl. choke tab on the carb plate? the 1bbl causes it to go over center and lock open

Author:  Reed [ Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:28 am ]
Post subject: 

Sounds like you have a problem with the choke linage. EIther that is a 318 BBD or the choke pulloff rod got bent.

Author:  HyperValiant [ Thu Aug 17, 2006 6:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

Reed, it is a slant 2bbl carb but the choke pulloff rod may be out of adjustment,Ill check it tomorrow.

HyperValiant

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