just made arangments to take delivery on a garrett T04E turbo that fits the following requirements: 225 cid engine, spool up at around 2000 rpm, peak efficiency at 4000 rpms and 8 pounds of boost at redline, 5000 rpms. it is water cooled and factory rebuilt. the only thing that i will have to do different than origional plan is to have external wastegate. going to use a 38mm wastegate with setting at 8 pounds. This setup is very compatable fot my blow thru system and weber carburation. I do have a question, the specifics on modifying the fuel pump to read pressure from turbo. can anyone assist with info? thanks

Any specs on the turbo? What trim? A/R? What did it come off of? Picutres? Turbine spec? Is the turbine a t4 also, or is it a t3/t4 hybrid?

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

im not sure what problem ur having im having a problem with my car running out of fuel at top end im told i need a holley blue pump so thats my next thing to do i will let u know

I am going to use a carter efi fuel pump with a mallory fuel regulator also my fuel system will have a return line.....

anyways look here to select a fuel pump http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/fuelpump.html

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http://www.cardomain.com/id/lncognito

Specs

Compressor: Garrett 60 Trim T04E BCCW4 design. 53 lb/min maximum flow. Housing is a .70 A/R, with 4.00" inlet and 2.5" discharge. While the housing is reconditioned, it has been re-machined at the flange and inlet connection, and has been machine-tumble-polished.

Turbine: Garrett 62 Trim (commonly referred to as "O" trim), cast in GMR235 alloy. Housing is a .70, divided, tangential entry, cast in high-silicon-moly iron. The turbine inlet is a conventional "T04" design, and the discharge is the popular "slip-fit" design. The turbine housing is factory-new, and has never been installed on an engine.

Bearing structure: Conventional hydrodynamic (not ball-bearing), floating bearing system. The bearing housing is also water-jacketed for additional cooling.

GRT

I hate to cut a purfectly good exhaust manifold, so , has anyone got a manifold with damage beyond the weld point where the 2 sections from the head come together? If you look on the early ones, for sure, there is a weld that has a cross section of 2" by 3" right after the Y from each side, this is where you cut and weld the required flange. So if it is damaged beyond that, I can use it. thanks GRT. ps I am now aquiring a wastegate. The new manifold extention will have the port for a wastegate...when done, pictures will be posted

well going to sacrifice the origional intake no other offered....also Turbo has arrived...will post pictures as soon as i can get them done....GRT

Sounds like a great project. I will be awaiting your progress and results eagerly.

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

grthigpen do you need an intake or exhaust manifold ? call me and let me know.

i have a question, can you put the truck pan on a 63 dart? if so, does it change the position of the dipstick relative to the distance from the rear of the engine?. I am gong to use the dipstick in the block as the oil return from the turbo, it was going to have to be moved anyway, will not be accessable after conversion. thanks GRT

Truck pans have the sump in the wrong place and they still use the hole in the block for the dipstick tube although the tube and stick are different.

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Joshua

The dipstick tube will be to small to return the oil properly. The turbo whips it into a froth and it needs a large tube to drain right.

Now, if you were to bore it out to 1/2" or 5/8", like the FWD 2.2/2.5 have, and drove a tube into it, that would be slick.

Don't know, maybe that was what you were planning. Just thought I would point it out now instead of after you got the car running and didn't know why it smoked so bad.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

just make sure its big enough to drain off all the oil in a timely manner.. if there is a stoppage / restriction in the return line it slows down the oil and it stays in the turbo too long and starts to coke / cook it.

good luck with your turbo project i hope to be starting on my turbo slant dart in 2007.

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dont compromise customize

boost IS a substitute for cubic inches

i plan on boring out the tube hole to the needed size. I have to move the dipstick anyway, hits right into the center of the turbo. want to weld a dipstck boss toward the rear of the sump where it can be accessed by the starter. also, my turbo is water cooled so the oil expansion will be less but i plan to have it large enough as if it is oil cooled only and also it will easily gravity feed from the turbo a 45 degree angle for only about 10 inches...thought about running the oil pressure side thru a cooler before the turbo...anyone have any thoughts on this? also i read a thread from someone who did a turbo conversion aand he told how he tapped the fuel pump and oil pressure switch and has got a couple of trips on the car with no problem...if you are out there....let me know where the thread is so i can read it again GRT ps can we attach pictures or only links???

I am not sure what your budget is or what kind of boost you plan on running. or how much power you wish to acheive. yes you can tap into the back side of the pump if you are running low boost levels. but low boost levels are not going to produce major power increases.


You might want to consider an upgraded fuel system. You can buy an electric pump and a boost indexed variable pressure regulator. You just set your static pressure and then the fuel pressure rises at a one to one ratio with the boost

example static pressure is 4 psi then at 9 psi/boost you will have 13 psi of fuel pressure.

i bought an aeromotive system for my turbodakota but it can get kind of pricey. I ran it all in braided stainless steel lines and i have around 1g in my fuel system total. it can be ran with out the braided lines i just didnt want to have to mess with it ever again lol.

ps if you are using a carb in a blow through becareful which carb you use they dont all like boost. you haved to do some internal modifications to get them to go right, I am running twin weber 45dcoe's in a blow through configuration and I am limited to 15 psi or i damage the carbs internally. any more than that and i have to ship the carbs out to have them modified.
hope this helps out

good luck with your toy

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dont compromise customize

boost IS a substitute for cubic inches