I was thinking of installing an electric cooling fan in my 64 Dart. I would like to put in a manifold temperature sender but can't find another opening. Can I make a "T" with the one for the dash gauge? Has any one tried this before? Thanks.

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Geo
1964 Dodge Dart GT
Ebay Purchase - $1569.00
Rebuilt transmission - $1700.00
PST Brake and suspension rebuild/shocks - $600
Fact that I have a long way to go - Priceless
This is begining to hurt!

An electric cooling fan draws about 7-10amps....

With the stock 64 alternator (30someamps) your not leaving much capacity to run the rest of the car (ignition, lights, interior fan, wipers.....)



Is the additional temperature sensor for a gauge or the electric fan?

If it's for the fan (and you get more alternator output) you can get one that has a sensor that goes on the radiator. If you do that, I'd get an adjustable one so that you can adjust the temp you want it to turn on. (and amazingly enough JC Whitney actually has a good mechanically adustable one, I use it on my truck)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Put on a bigger alternator, and you will be fine. The fan control unit you want is sold by Advance for $19. I have a fan I will sell for cheap if you are anywhere near Maryland. To convert it to pusher, you remove the C clip that holds the blade on, and turn it around.
Sam

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I drill and tap the thermostate cover for water temp access.
DD

Excellent advice by all. The extra sensor is for the fan. Any recommendations on an upgraded alternator?

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Geo
1964 Dodge Dart GT
Ebay Purchase - $1569.00
Rebuilt transmission - $1700.00
PST Brake and suspension rebuild/shocks - $600
Fact that I have a long way to go - Priceless
This is begining to hurt!

I don't think that pulling the fan blade off and fipping it will change the direction of air flow. I will make it less efficient if the blade has a curve to it. All that will happen is a fan that will not be efficient in pulling the air in the wrong direction if mounted in the front of radiator. Flipping a puller blade doesn't make a pusher blade.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Depends on the particular fan blade in question. Some of them are reversible, but you're right, designs that are specifically intended to turn in one particular direction do not work efficiently when spun the other direction.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Many electric fans are designed to be used as a pusher or puller. Just flip the blades as stated AND reverse the positive and negative wires, to reverse the direction of rotation. The fans that are designed this way, have a decal on the fan with an airflow arrow, and stating which wire should be positive (black or blue).

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

What you're really doing is flipping the fan support structure and motor when you change from a puller to a pusher. The fan ends up rotating the same direction (don't forget to swap wires) and orientation on either side of the radiator. So the fan aerodynamics end up the same, just it's location has changed (front or rear of radiator)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Typically on decent aftermarket fans you first flip the blade set for efficiency in the chosen direction (concave {cupped} side in the direction of flow), then wire for the rotation you want per your installation. Most d/c fan motors will run fine both directions.

Push is usually preferable to pull, flow efficiency-wise.

We're using eight of'em in a variety of applications on the float.

Looks like I could've snuck that in just a bit sooner. Oh well, redundancy isn't always a bad thing.........

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
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Was not awhere that wire switching was able to be done without burnning out the motor. This changes alot.
All this time I was so concerned about correct wiring and the fear of burning out a motor.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Does not match my experience or understanding.

Problem with pusher fans is that you've got the fan housing structure and motor physically blocking airflow to the radiator (and A/C condensor if so equipped).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yep, everything I've ever read says pullers are more efficient............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I agree that a pusher blocks a portion of the radiator but, I don't think that you should eliminate a pusher from any plans for a build up. I have been using a 16" pusher from a Mercedes I found in a JY for over a year now. The temp gage has yet to get above 1/2 way up the scale. When that baby kicks on during idling or sitting in traffic the temp drops immediately. As long as it moves enough air to fit your application a pusher is a viable option in low clearance situations.

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This particular fan was designed to be used as either a pusher or puller, and the instructins said to turn the blade around to make it a pusher. It has what they call a universal motor, which means the field is not magnetic but charged by electricity. Since changing the leads on a universal motor changes the polarity of both the comutator and the field, rotation stays the same regardless of which way it is wired. Old American Flyer, and Lionel trains had this type of motor which required relays that would flip the polarity of either the field or the commutator, but not both, to reverse the direction of the locomotive. It is called "universal" because this type of motor will, for a fact, run on both AC and DC current.

Anyway, I had a pusher only on this Dart for years, and it worked fine. There is not much space between the end of a slant and an A body radiator. When I put the intercooler and AC on this car, I had to move the fan to the back side. Since this 16" 2000 CFM unit was too fat, I split the duties between two 10" 1000 CFM units, which stradle the snout on the water pump. Anybody who wants this fan can have it cheap. It is just sitting here. It cost me $100, and I will sell it for $25. If no one wants it that is fine, it can sit here awhile longer.

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