68 is the year they were revised. What year was the spark plug tube dropped? Does the revision carry on in to the nonspark plug tube type? Are these nonplug tube heads very obvious. Other words - if I am at a car show am I going to hear "Hay that heads not correct for this year"
These plug tubes were known to leak. Is this really a big problem or if installed correctly it no big leaking deal?
The reason I ask is the machine shop says "If your going to work the head this much you might as well start with the good one"

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

1975. Fewer spark plug options for the non-tube heads, and the non-tube heads weigh more.
Yes.
Yes.
Bull. They are only "known" to leak if the spark plug tube seals (O-rings) aren't changed occasionally (say, once every five years or so). It costs all of $4 in parts and zero extra time to replace the plug tube seals when replacing the spark plugs.
They think "the good one" is the one without plug tubes? I disagree.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

No not the ones without tubes, but the one with the revision. I have a 64 block and head. They think that the 69 and up head is better than mine.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

If you are doing mild port work stay with the older head. If you are doing a major race head use the new style.

I prefer the new style heads myself. I am always curious when Dan mentions plug choices. There are about a bazillion plug choices for the peanut style head.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I wouldn't say its a "race engine" but we are shooting for alot of torque and HP. Its getting all the goodies in the machining department and oversized valves. If it weren't for the welding and regind of the crank, I'd say that the heads are getting over half the total cost of the machine work alone. Its not a daily driver or a racecar but why not go the distance on head work? Lots of power in the head, I'd like to get it out for the one time machining cost.
These guys seem pretty sharp. Its surprising to me what I've overlooked or had backwards. I am building a torque engine. The cam I selected was really for a higher RPM motor. This is just an example of one mistake that was avoided. Just goes to show that another set of intelegent eyes is sometimes worth the time and money.
When I get the quote back I'll let you all know what we came up with.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

When you get the machine work done, get the 5 angle valve job on the intake and 3 angle on the exhaust. Go with teflon valve seals. The total cost for the head I run is around $2,000. There is a huge difference between a $600 head job and a $1800 one. It just depends on how fast you want to go and how much money you want to spend.

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...except not the extended-electrode type that works so well in the slant-6 combustion chamber.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have a old style tube head on my race car and it has been reworked by Gary Bruner I doint know all of the specs but i told him i wanted one like he would use on his race car. Other engine builders like Mike Jeffrey or the Cox Bros will do the same work. Which one is better who knows they all are great builders. That is where the power in a Slant comes alive.
Thanks Ron Parker








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