I did it on my '66 Valiant. I used the M/C off of a drum brake Demon, and the distribution block off of a '71 Dart. The M/C bolted right on, and I just had to make a couple new steel lines.
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| Dual sump master cylinder conversion https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19357 |
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| Author: | reddart64 [ Fri Aug 25, 2006 2:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Dual sump master cylinder conversion |
I remember seeing somewhere a conversion for the single sump master cylinder on the early 60's drum brake cars. I believe that this conversion used a master cylinder from a 70 something and up A body and proportioning valve. Has anyone else seen or done something like this? |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:43 pm ] |
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I did it on my '66 Valiant. I used the M/C off of a drum brake Demon, and the distribution block off of a '71 Dart. The M/C bolted right on, and I just had to make a couple new steel lines.
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| Author: | Matt Cramer [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:22 am ] |
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Did pretty much the same thing myself after running it out of fluid. Virtually any '60s through '76 or so master cylinder from any Mopar will bolt right up; they just differ in bore sizes and valving. Get one with the same brake type as your own - unless you're also doing a drum-to-disc swap too. |
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| Author: | reddart64 [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:31 pm ] |
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Thanks, for the replys. Any hiccups with the proportioning valve? |
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| Author: | tophat [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:06 pm ] |
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on my 63 Dart with 9" drums, I used a 74 satalite, disc / drum master, yes with 4 wheel drums  I just bought a plug for the line to the rear at the parts store. the plug was about a buck or so. It works well with no prop valve at all. it will lock the front wheels just before the rears when everything is adjusted good. it stops good, but as soon as I find parts and get a few projects out of the way, it NEEDS to be converted to disc!just what I run, maybe not for you... good luck, tophat |
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| Author: | AnotherSix [ Fri Sep 01, 2006 9:09 am ] |
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I did this on my 65 dart. As pointed out, get the newer cylinder for drums if that is what you have. You should check that the bore size is the same or the next size up if you do not mind a firmer pedal. I would not go smaller as the pedal stroke can get too long and there is nothing quite like the feeling of having your brake pedal hit the floor. There is no proportioning valve with all drums, if you have front disks you will need a newer style proportioning valve or an adjustable one and a residual pressure valve for the rear. On the older cars with drums it just has a four way tee. I used a plug in the tee(be sure it is a inverted flare steel plug) and used a union to extend the rear line up to the master. I also made a new line to go from the tee to the master for the front. You can get adapters for the master cylinder that will mate up with the standard tubing nut for the size tubing your car has, rather than trying to scrounge up the odd sized factory tubing nuts(1/2"-20 and 9/16"-20). The newer cars are 3/16" tubing front and back, but I seem to remember my 65 having 1/4" and 3/16" tubing. |
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