Howdy Slanters -
I need to ask your help in figuring out how to do some dis-assembly on my '70 Dart's old 225 slant.

This 225 block has finally gone south....but it still happens to have some quite-nice parts in it.....including the cam (almost brand new! nice performance cam) and the schumacher double-roller timing chain and gears....so I"m diggin' into it.

At the moment, I've gotten it torn down to the point that I've removed the head and timing chain cover, pulled all the lifters out of their bores, and am staring at the timing gears and chain - which refuse to come off!

Is there some sort of trick, or special tool required to pull these out? To be honest, the large gear (attached to the end of the cam) could be pulled out with the camshaft attached to it, but the chain and the small gears attached to the crankshaft are preventing this from happening. I don't see how you pry loose the small timing gears from the crank........yargghhh!

Much obliged for your help here guys - thanks!!!!!

Mike T.
motorcity_69@yahoo.com

extractor? or a couple of bangs with a plastic pry-off tool and a plastic or wooden mallet?

why don't you loosen the bolt of the cam gear and take the cam gear and chain off? that way you can extract it. I don't know if I'd reuse a timing chain... the sprockets OK if they're good, but the chain... might be pushing the things near the edge... Anyway I think that the way to remove a timing set is loosening and deattaching the cam gear first so you can pry off the crank's sprocket w/o tearing down the chain.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Well if you take the bolt out for the top gear it should wiggle off the cam.

You might want to keep the oil pump, dist. or fuel pump on until you can get it wiggled off.

That will get your top gear and chain off.

I use a regular gear puller for the bottom gear.

Check Here for more info too.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/in-car ... review.htm

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I am about to change my timing chain also. Does anybody have a scan of the FSM pages abut timing chain replacement. The Hayes manual is rather vague, and that is putting it nicely.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Jeb, are you still messing around with that Haynes manual? I would have thought you had gotten a FSM by now.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I haven't really needed one until now. The only thing I have ever used the Hayes manual for is torque specs. If I needed to know something important I would just ask you guys. It saves me money too. I saw a 1974 FSM at a swap meet not too long ago for $80. Would be nice to have but I am starting med school so I have to follow my budget. I spend all of my money on parts.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I agree!

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I just replaced the timing chain in our 71 a couple of weeks ago. One thing was odd (to me). We just got the car so I had never been under the hood. I lined up the timing marks to tdc with the distributor rotor pointing at the #1 position before pulling the damper. When I got it open the timing marks on both gears were up, or what counts for up on a slant. This is different from the so called manual I have and every other engine I have worked on. At first I assumed someone had put the distributor in 180 degrees off and fixed it by re-arranging the plug wires. This was not the case. I rotated the engine and verified that it was in fact at TDC compression on #1. The new timing set went on the same way. Of course you could line up the marks either way and the cam would still be the same in relation to the crank, but you would end up putting the distributor in 180 off if you removed it. I need to get a real factory manual. I assume timing marks up is normal for a slant? The only other surprise was that the top cog looked great for having 119,000 miles on it. I have learned not to trust nylon teeth after about 100,000 miles.