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| Setting advance curve for elec. ignition https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19421 |
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| Author: | Jopapa [ Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:28 am ] |
| Post subject: | Setting advance curve for elec. ignition |
I snagged a NOS Chrysler electronic distributor off eBay, and now have everything save for the plate of aluminum and Magnecor wires for the HEI conversion on the fiance's Dart. I'm planning to fix the fuel gauge issue before converting the ignition, but for now, I'm trying to figure out a good method to setting the advance curve when I do the conversion. I've never had to set the curve on any vehicle before (they've either been too new of an engine, or already set well), so in all honesty, I don't have a clue what I'll be doing. From what I could find here, I should start with an initial setting of 10BTDC (though I've seen Dan recommend 5, so I'll start with that) with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged. Beyond that, I've seen so much information that I'm lost. I'll be picking up a dial back timing light when I get home, and I should also mention that the dist. does NOT come with a vacuum module, so I'll need to source the right part. I understand that their are different ones that can be used, so which would be best for a street-driven car? Right now we just want it to run so we can drive it around casually to keep it from falling into neglect like it did for the first 33 years of its life. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Aug 30, 2006 6:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | Taking the shot in the dark... |
Getting a dial back timing light, a hand vaccuum pump to test the effects of the vacc. can and a vaccuum gauge to see what your car is doing, and a tach will be mandatory. Next up, was there a part number for the EI distributor you bought, why did it come with no vacc. can? If it's a mystery you may have to pull the top off and check the governor before you do any installations, setting the initial by "guess" is not the best way to do things...if your governor is marked with a stamp then you can "try" this formula 30-(stamp X2)= initial and work from there... Also what carburation are you using? -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Jopapa [ Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Taking the shot in the dark... |
Quote: Getting a dial back timing light, a hand vaccuum pump to test the effects of the vacc. can and a vaccuum gauge to see what your car is doing, and a tach will be mandatory.
It's just got a 1BBL Holley on it right now, which we'll more'n likely stick with until we've done some degree of restoration on it (I'm more intent on reliable driveability than on performance until the rest of the car is in tip-top shape).Next up, was there a part number for the EI distributor you bought, why did it come with no vacc. can? If it's a mystery you may have to pull the top off and check the governor before you do any installations, setting the initial by "guess" is not the best way to do things...if your governor is marked with a stamp then you can "try" this formula 30-(stamp X2)= initial and work from there... Also what carburation are you using? -D.Idiot There was no part # for the dist., so I'll have to look when I get home (hopefully it'll be delivered by then). All I had to go off of was "NOS Chrysler 225 electronic distributor" and a pic of a vacuum can-less part. What's your recommendation for a good timing light? I usually stick with Craftsman for my tools, but I'm always open to other people's suggestions. I've got a Mityvac hand pump, so I'm good there, and I'll have to pick up a tach (again, what's the recommendation?) I'll get an Autometer tach once we're ready to redo the gauge cluster, but I'd like to wait before doing that and get the least expensive one that'll still do the job. |
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| Author: | SwingLo73 [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 8:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I got a brand new Innova digital timing light off of ebay for 75 bucks. It has a built in tach and will display both advance and rpm at the same time, sort of killing two birds with one stone, not to mention being able to really dial it in. Or you could always try juggling the different guages and tools... I seem to remember DI using both hands and his mouth to try working the throttle, tach, and light all at once when we did my darts last tune up. Considering most cheapo lights are about 40-50 bucks anyway, I think it was worth it. |
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| Author: | james longhurst [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 11:23 am ] |
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hiya swinglo- what's the part number for that timing light? it sounds like a really nice piece! my craftsman light is getting a little finicky after 20 years of faithful service. i considered a snap-on light awhile back but balked at the $250 pricetag.  -james |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 3:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: hiya swinglo-
what's the part number for that timing light? it sounds like a really nice piece! my craftsman light is getting a little finicky after 20 years of faithful service. i considered a snap-on light awhile back but balked at the $250 pricetag. -james Dropped to many times?????????????? After a big drop, mine quit working. Took it apart and reseated all the connections, and now it works fine................... |
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| Author: | SwingLo73 [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 6:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It's the Innova Equus 3568 Pro Digi Timing light... I actually saw one today at Schucks for 139.99 Got mine off ebay for less than $90 with shipping and everything. I got it from an ebay store in Spokane, can't remember the name, but if you can't find it on ebay (doubtful you'll have a problem there) I could get the name for you. I bought on Friday, got it Monday... real fast shipper. There's an even better model that has a dwell meter too, and some other options, but it was $150 or something like that. |
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