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School me on the long rod 225
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19440		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  vynn3 [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:54 am ]
Post subject:  School me on the long rod 225
So, I'm thinking, since I've gotta rebuild by short block due to the suspected thrown rod (checked the convertor to flexplate bolts, but haven't dropped the tranny yet to check the flexplate to crank bolts, so I'll probably just check them when I pull the engine/tranny), why not have some fun and build a non-stroker "stroker", as described in the article. (After researching to find Dan's explaination as to what a "more favorable rod ratio" is — thanks Dan!).

I've found a set of 198 rods, and will likely go with the KB268 pistons, while shooting for a 9:1 compression ratio. The current setup is a super six/dutra duals combo, and I'm looking at the Erson 270 cam and an Edge convertor. The 2.76 rear will have to make due until the T-5 conversion/rear swap.

Any comments, suggestions, or noted pitfalls in building such an combo? I haven't approached my machinist/engine builder about it yet. Is he gonna freak, or is this not a big deal? Just interested in additional input/support.
Author:  vynn3 [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:12 am ]
Post subject: 
BTW, anyone wanna go in half on 3 sets of 2.2 pistons? That would be $197.31 for a set of six, plus shipping.
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:11 am ]
Post subject: 
I might go with you in another half of 3 sets...

Just wondering: those pistons are dished? diameter is? wrist pin is true centered? compression distance between center of the wrist pin and crown? rings? if you have a link so I can check them out online and not driving you mad with inquiries... :roll: B BTW I know that shipping 6 piston down here will be pricey, I'm thinking to have them shipped to my sister who's in philadelphia and she's coming at the end of the year.

If you're shooting for a heavy oversize, I'll go with you (say 88mm or larger up to 91 mm). If you're way under 88 mm I might not be able to use my existing blocks (wich are already in the .050 oversize ballpark)
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:21 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
BTW, anyone wanna go in half on 3 sets of 2.2 pistons? That would be $197.31 for a set of six, plus shipping.
What size can we get? Std. or oversize up to 1 mm?

The long rod engine build is easy once you have a good set of 198 con rods. The only advice I have is to buy 2 sets of rings. (enough for 8 pistons) You get about the same price as ordering a set and 1/2. (6)

The piston clearance can be set tight with the KB pistons but I tend to run them a little looser then KB says, same with the ring gaps.

Be sure to save some $$ for some good cylinder head work, that is where you will find the extra power.
DD
Author:  vynn3 [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
if you have a link so I can check them out online and not driving you mad with inquiries... :roll:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 8058416899

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/performance ... s&P_id=133
Quote:
What size can we get? Std. or oversize up to 1 mm?
I haven't yanked the engine and pulled it apart yet, so I don't know the condition of the bores. I'm hoping to pull it in the next few weeks. Dumb question: I guess it would be stupid to decide on a specific overbore now and buy pistons, and have the block bored to match, huh? Even with a larger overbore? Pardon my ignorance, I'm just giddy and anxious to start buying parts... :)
Author:  vynn3 [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:23 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Be sure to save some $$ for some good cylinder head work, that is where you will find the extra power.
Sadly, the short block rebuild is going to push my financial resources to the limit, and besides, I just installed a rebuilt (stock) cylinder head a couple of months ago, so the only head mods for now will be heavier valve springs for the cam. So I'm trying to build a good, strong foundation for now, and then have a slant pro like you or Mike Jeffries build be a ported, big-valve head sometime next year. And THEN the fun starts! :)

And THEN the T-5 conversion and 3.73 rear doubles the fun!

At least, that's the plan...
Author:  slantzilla [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Get the pistons as big as you can, and bore the block to match. The bore clearances have to be matched to the pistons anyway.

The bigger the bore, the better the head will flow later when you can do headwork. The smaller bore size tends to shroud the valves. :shock:
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 1:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just wandering how the long rod effects the torque curve of the engine. Do you loose alot of bottom torque or it just spreads it out over the RPM range.


Jess
Author:  slantzilla [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
It really depends on what cam and what headwork has been done. When mine had the short Racer Brown cam it had gobs of low end.

With the big Clifford it has not so much. :shock:
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