Anyone know where to get the left hand thread (front) wheel studs for my 60 valiant?

Thanks,
Justin

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Dorman still makes 'em.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I checked on the Rock Auto website, and found this under 1960 Plymouth (sic) Valiant:

DORMAN Part # 610135
Front Stud: LH Thread, 11" Composite Drum or All 12" Drums

11" and 12" Drums?
The other listings are all RH thread.

www.rockauto.com

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Mine has 9" cast iron drums. Think the studs would still work? I entered that p/n in the Dorman website, and they didn't have it. Other than that all I can find on the dorman website (or anywhere else for that matter) are RH thread.

Thanks for your help,
Justin

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Does anyone know why my right side studs where a nightmare to replace? the left side had already been done to change thread type. This isn't my first time replacing a stud but using a hammer and pounding them out did not work. They just got tighter and tighter and unusable the more I hit them. Removed hub and put them in a small press which just flatened the tops. I had to cut them off and use a torch a blow a hole through the center of each. This allowed the stud to colapse in on its self so it would push through.
A picture below shows a very rough drawing of the stud before the removel. Notice the wedge shape.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

That isn't exactly uncommon on front drum hubs. I don't remember noticing it on a rear but it does make it tricky. I imagine it is a result of whatever tool they used to press them in at the factory. I hope you were lucky enough to have a tight fit with the new stud. My 66 dart had some loose stud on the lf hub that took a minute with the welder to fix. I just hope they never break or strip.

yes. the factory studs are "swedged"(sp) to the hub. the little bit that sticks through the hub is like peaned over. if you had managed to press the studs out, you would have likely ruined the hubs. or at least had loose fitting studs that diddnt need to be pressed in, they would just slip in resulting in the need to weld. there is a tool to cut the swedge off. it is expensive and rare. if you dont have the tool, you can grind the heads off the inside the hub THEN press them out from the back side.

good luck
tophat

My studs fit like a glove, but I bought ones a little longer and slitly larger nurl. The left side was already welded in. I pounded those out easly and pressed in the new ones that fit great. No welding needed.
Got them from Napa. I'll try to post the part number.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Your correct wheel studs are as follows (all Dorman P/Ns)

Stud, LH: 610-084
Stud, RH: 610-083
Nut, LH: 610-099
Nut, RH: 610-186

All these parts should be available by special order through any Dorman stockist; you can also get them at rockauto.com by typing the part numbers (without dashes) into their pink part search field.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.