Slanters - I have an opportunity to buy a rebuilt 65 225 slant 6. This sucker was rebuilt in 1990 - yes 1990 - never installed and never fired since the rebuild. I went over the machine shop itemized list and it's quite detailed as to work that was done. Head redone with new standard size valves, bronze guides and hardened exhaust seats. Block took standard pistons and rings. The original crank had something wrong with it, so they sold him a later (71-72 or thereabouts) crank that's been turned 20/40. Camshaft is new as is lifters. Cam is a stock unit. The owner supplied a slant 6 windage tray AND a true double roller timing set, which were installed. Motor has standard manifolds installed as well as new oil pump, water pump, points distributor. It has been in dry storage since the rebuild, turned over every so often by the bolt still attached to the balancer. I've been friends with the owner since 86 and have seen the motor quite often in his basement, so I know it's never been installed or fired. His widow would like it gone so has offered it to me. My biggest concern is that crank that's been turned 20/40. I can accept the 20 under for the mains but 40 under on the rods? Anyone have an opinion on this? I can get the motor fairly cheap, not that it matters. My thoughts were that it would be a great basis for an upgrade to larger valves (which I possess), better than stock cam and upgrade the intake/exhaust manifolds (which I also possess). I'm just hung up on that crank.

So if you can get it cheap just get a new crank and install it. I wouldn't like a crank turned down that much either though it would probably OK. Cranks are relatively easy to find and it should be no trick to come up with a standard or .010/.010 crank.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

You have absolutely nothing to worry about with 0.040" under on either rods or mains. Some of the highest HP Slants ever built have used 0.060" under, and others routinely turn down the Slant rod journal to run a SBC rod diameter. There is just plain a lot of metal there.

As long as you see no rust and it's been stored well, I say go for it.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It means you can only cut it two or three more times....

Scream it till it coughs and then get a new crank from the slant pile.

Personally, I worry alot more about oil pump gears ........

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

That was my thought also.

If the crank was ground correctly and matched with the proper size bearings, .020 / .040 u/s will not be an issue.
Be sure to use the adaptor ring if the engine does have a "big hub" crank the will mate with a "small nose" converter.
DD