Since I am going to replace my gauges, I was thinking of replacing the ammeter with a voltmeter. Is there any reason I should not do this and just replace the ammeter with another ammeter? Are there any problems you can forsee in doing this? When I disconnect the ammeter, can I just cut the wires and seal them off? It just so happens that the ammeter is the only factory gauge that actually works in my car. I have a 73 Swinger.

See this article on madelectrical's website

Ah, yes, Mad Electrical's website again. Half-baked advice for Mopar owners from a Chevy-head.

If you choose to go to that site, you will read a lurid horror story about how the wiring on Mopars is crap, the ammeters are badly designed, they all fail, your dashboard's going to melt down and catch on fire, unless you rush out RIGHT THIS MINUTE and hack a voltmeter into/onto your dash and disconnect/bypass that ticking time-bomb of an ammeter immediately.

BS, BS, BS. Choose to believe it if you want, but the fact is, there's no real reason to replace your ammeter with a voltmeter. A working ammeter tells you what's happening with your electrical system on a real-time, right-now basis. A voltmeter doesn't. It just tells you the general trend. An ammeter makes it easier to spot a problem early. I don't say that a voltmeter is useless; it provides a different kind of information. But if I have to pick one or the other, my choice is the ammeter.

Also, there's no voltmeter that will fit in place of your ammeter and look/fit right. You'd have to do something hosey like bolt one under or atop the dash or clamp one to your steering column.

The ammeter's the only working gauge in your car...? Then why mess with it? You'd have better, more cost-effective results for your effort, time and expense if you were to set about fixing the other gauges!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Actually, I am replacing all my gauges. Right now I have a mechanical water temp gauge on my AC vents (the line wasn't long enough to go to my dash), a tach on the left widshield pillar, I need a gas gauge (lost track and ran out this week), and I only have an oil idiot light (would like a guage). So I am going to get a panel from Sick6 and put all my gauges where they should rightfully go, in front of my eyes.

I did replace the voltage limiter a while back from a wrecking yard 72 Dart limiter. The gas gauge worked for about 2 weeks, then one day it pegged, and hasn't worked since. I made one of the 7805 limiters and plugged it in, but I think the damage had been done. I am giving up on the factory gauges.

By the way, I want to keep my oil idiot light AND run an oil pressure gauge (dash lights can be real attention getters). I remember seeing a post or article on teeing the oil pressure and running 2 senders, but I have failed to find it again (I think it was on Allpar?). Is this possible?

Again, I'll defer to Dan on this one.

I vote with Dan.

With an ammeter, you can tell what's happening this minute, but with a voltmeter, you need a calendar.

I've been driving Mopars for over 50 years and owned nearly 50 of them, most of which had ammeters, and I've never had one fail. If you keep your electrical connections clean, tight and undamaged, you have nothing to worry about.

I believe it is in the "Gauge Rage" article on the Imperial club's website. I don't have the link handy but it shouldn't be hard to find.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Sounds good. Is it as easy as just cutting the wires to the old ammeter and splicing in the new gauge?

Check out truck and van motors from the 80s (also look at 2.2s and 2.5s). Alot of them have an aluminium "tower" that scres into the oil pressure fiting on the block/pump that has several threaded holes for sensors. You can install one of these, screw your factory idiot light sensor into it and then screw the sender for the pressure guae in as well. I grabbed one off of a slant six in a van, but I have seen them on smallblocks and four cylinders too.

Installing a voltmeter is about that easy, but that's not the way to do it. Generally you'll want the + terminal on the volmeter to be connected to a switched 12v source and the - terminal to ground. That way, you'll have voltage readings when the key is turned on.

The gauge article refers to a sender with 2 outputs; 1 for a gauge and the other for a light. For any more detail that that you'll need to look for the article.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

P.S. I've got a gauge set out of a 74 dart custom in real good shape. I'll throw in a voltage limiter if all this will help you out...
PM if it helps

_________________
___________________________________

Some headers and a super6... She'll be alright

Ouch. When they peg, they cook to death.
You needn't run two senders, all you need is a dual-function sender, see this thread.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That sounds like a good way to go, and I am sure it will work with the idiot light since it is original, but will it run an aftermarket oil pressure gauge correctly, or just a factory gauge. I'm not very experienced with aftermarket gauges, but don't most come with thier own sender? Or do most oil pressure senders work with similar specs, unlike the gas gauges that all seem to work with different ohm ranges depending on the manufacturer.

If not, do you know what aftermarket oil pressure gauge will work with the dual sender?

Thanks for the offer, but I think I am done with the factory gauges.

I'll agree that there are advantages to having an ammeter, but I have to say that running a full amp load with no shunt through 30-40 year old wiring isn't all that safe in my book. I did the bypass on several cars before I heard of madelectrical.com and saw not only better charging system performance, but also increased electrical accessory performance.

Just my 2 cents...

_________________