More on '74 Duster:
The Haynes manual I have doesn't help much on this. It's good on C bodies.
I'm trying to remove the dash unit that contains the speedo and gauges.
I've loosened the speedo cable, light switch and w/s wiper switch.
It still doesn't want to come out.
What am I missing?
It'd sure be nice if there was a little more access room.
Went to the library tonight to look at their Mitchell manuals.
The only info they had older than 1983 was minimum tuneup info.

Also, the heater core is bad.
Any advice on removal of the old one?
Car did have A/C, but it was removed before we got it.

What's a good source to buy a real MoPar factory manual for a '74?
Or a CD of same?
Used bookstores around here haven't been any help.
Thanks for replies and ifo.

Did you lower the steering column?

Ditto what RDJ said. It will make life much easier if you loosen the bolts on the steering column base plate at the fire wall and the two holding it up at the dash. Let it hang down to give you more access room.

If you disconnected the speedo cable and wiring for the light switch and windshield washer knob, the only things remaining should be the two wires for the ammeter (upper left corner) and the main harness connection to the instrument cluster (several terminals in a round plug, just to the right of the high beam indicator light). There are maybe three screws on top and three on bottom holding the cluster to the dash. Take those out and you should be able to coax the cluster forward enough to get at the main wiring harness plug.

As for the manual...
I bought a Factory Shop Manual for 1974 Dodge from Detroit Iron Information Systems, Inc. (www.detroitironis.com) for about $49.

The heater core is located inside the underdash air box. If the previous owner removed the factory A/C, did they replace the air box with a non-A/C style? I bought a new core at my local Advance Auto. The only problem I had with it was that the two inlet and outlet copper lines were bent at an angle slightly different than the original core. They did not penetrate the fire wall correctly, so I CAREFULLY bent them to the correct angle. You don't want to break loose a soldered joint.

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

I had to replace the core in my 75 duster once, and it wasn't that bad.

to get it out, open the glove box and remove the plastic (or cardboard) box.....it sort of folds on itself.....you will be able to see the connections to the blower and the cables that open the heater door.

there are "clips" that sort of pinch the front and back halves of the plastic box around your core together, I forget how many, but I know there is at least one mashed against the interior above the kick panel. once you get all of the clips out you have to yank the housing down, and then towards yourself when your sitting inside the passenger area. this is because it has to drop out of the fresh air intake (round plastic tube leading up towards the cowel). now you can reach and see the core. I think there are 4 screws holding the core to the firewall, then just the small plate held by one screw in the engine bay.

oh yeah....drain everything before you start this whole thing........

There is also a small Phillips screw up on the tubes near the firewall on the inside. it is a real bear to get on. I have a really nice heater core from a 74 Valiant that had A/C I could make you a good deal on.
Before you try and pull the instrument cluster DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! the ammeter contacts like to hit the dash frame and fry stuff as you roll the cluster forward.

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