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Engine turning tool dimensions. https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20537 |
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Author: | marc426 [ Sat Oct 28, 2006 12:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | Engine turning tool dimensions. |
Hello everyone, I'd like to fabricate a tool to turn my engine without the starter (yeah, that'll be better). I found the only place to grab something is on the engine pulley where it has 6holes (3 of them have a bolt in). My intricate design will be the following : I will weld 3 small bolts on a metal piece. But here's my question : does anyone has the measure of the bolt circle on which the bolt must be welded. If anyone has a pulley apart from the engine, I guess it would be simpler to measure it. So if anyone got infos about such a (simple) tool, it would be really great to share! Thanks for your help Marc |
Author: | Slant Cecil [ Sat Oct 28, 2006 12:10 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I use the bolt in the crank snout to turn the motor. All cranks are threaded, not all have bolts. Get a 3/4" bolt and washer from the hardware store. How long? My guess is 2.5", just measure your crank's hole for depth, make sure it's not too long and bottoms out. The item you describe would have one advantage, you could back the motor up without unscrewing the bolt. |
Author: | Joshie225 [ Sat Oct 28, 2006 12:21 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
If you like wrecking yards and are really cheap just pull the bolt from a small block damper. I've taken apart so many small blocks I have a pretty good bolt and washer supply. The washer you may not find easily in a hardware store. I also have a much shorter fine thread 3/4" bolt for turning engines before the damper is installed. My machinist once loaned me his big block damper that was made to slip fit over the crank and has holes in the outer ring for a piece of round bar for turning the engine. Very handy. |
Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Oct 28, 2006 2:41 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I got 3 Grade 8 bolts for those holes, and just turn the engine over with those......... |
Author: | james longhurst [ Sat Oct 28, 2006 3:32 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: If you like wrecking yards and are really cheap just pull the bolt from a small block damper. I've taken apart so many small blocks I have a pretty good bolt and washer supply. The washer you may not find easily in a hardware store. I also have a much shorter fine thread 3/4" bolt for turning engines before the damper is installed. My machinist once loaned me his big block damper that was made to slip fit over the crank and has holes in the outer ring for a piece of round bar for turning the engine. Very handy.
A new crank bolt is still available from Mopar, and I believe ARP $ells a bolt with a 1/2" square hole for use with a similarly sized ratchet. I have also used a Milodon crank socket and soon gave it away when I bought a Comp Cams socket which has a threaded collar and set screw for use with a degree wheel. Talk about handy! ![]() -James |
Author: | marc426 [ Sun Oct 29, 2006 2:48 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Ok, thanks for your replies. I'll settle for the bolt for a while. Can anyone tell me if it's fine or coarse thread? 3/4" right? And about 2.5" long? I'll give a try at my local US bolts supplier but it's not really easy (if you didn't know, everything's metric here). Thanks again Marc |
Author: | GTS225 [ Sun Oct 29, 2006 4:36 pm ] |
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Well, Marc....Normally it's fine thread. You said "everything's metric here". Where is "here"? Roger |
Author: | marc426 [ Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:14 pm ] |
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France man! (Should I say Europe instead... ![]() Thanks for your help |
Author: | GTS225 [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 1:48 am ] |
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France....OK....That would have been a U.S.-built engine. I was thinking along the lines of Australian. I don't know if the engines were built there or shipped in, but there were a lot of slants used "down under". Roger |
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