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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 2:48 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 4:59 am
Posts: 23
Location: northern virginia
Car Model:
i am rebuilding a d100 pickup with a 225 engine (all is remaining stock). i have run into a few snags trying to find parts and answers locally. any help or answers would be greatly appreciated.
1. i don't have the bolt that mounts the harmonic balancer on the crank. i have narrowed the size down to bigger than 5/8, smaller than 3/4. that leaves me with 21/32, 11/16 or 23/32. anyone know?
2. torque on front spindle nuts (castle nuts that hold the front drum on)?
3. where is the most reasonable place to get clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and flywheel ring? actually, flywheel ring has one bad spot where it was chewed from starter. i am thinking about flipping it around. ???????
4. two sets of motor mount holes on frame. not sure whether to use top or bottom.
thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:36 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9941
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Issue #1 Harmonic Balancer Bolt - That is a 3/4" Fine thread bolt - I got one from fastenal For turning my engine over on the stand.

You really do not need one as The balancer is not going anywhere. If you really want one go to the Local pick a part yard and get one from any 80's V8 Chrysler Product. They are the same.

Issue #3 For the Clutch, Check Your Local Phone Book to see if there is a local Clutch Rebuilder in your area - These Guys are usually pretty Knowledgable and will be willing to make you up and assembly and You know your Dollars are helping out the little guy.

Issue # 2 - Spindle Nuts - Just tighten them enough so that the drum turns freely on the Bearings (slight Drag From Pressure On the Bearing) Then go tighter until the cotter pin will slip through.

I am not sure in issue #4 maybe ROCK can help you I believe he has a truck like yours. (what year is your truck)?


Greg

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:50 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
Car Model:
Bolt is 3/4 X 16 fine thread about 2 inches long if you can't find one at a junkyard or can't get it broke loose

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02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 7:52 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
HI Fikey,

Hey man, love those trucks!! I have long relied on Greg for advice, and Jeb too...you are getting good info there. They are being kind...in order to really answer you lemme (us) know the year of the truck. I do my playing with a '64 d100 stepside (sweptline series). Same stuff from 61-69, and many same parts later years too. I just use a Hollander manual if in doubt. BUT, need to know year AND bell housing type to answer your clutch question. My truck came new with the big so called universal cast iron bell (casting number2235714-2). That starter is a low mount starter at bottom of engine. Number is on engine compartment face of bell near top of bell. This bell has the very large flywheel and 11 or 12 inch clutch (don't remember just now and mine is stashed out back). You need to know which bell you have because the smaller bells fit a 10 inch clutch, or the slightly smaller 9 1/4 to 9 1/2 one. I prefer the 10 inch one. And of course the smaller bells with the top mount starter have smaller flywheels than the big clutch in the universal bell. Are you hydraulic slave operated or something else? I have some spare clutch sets and would sell you one at my cost which is right cheap. I just pick them up when I get a chance so have found some I forgot I had recently.

As to engine mounts, pre 69 or post 69? Not sure what you mean by two holes. The rubber mount is on a steel pad with a threaded stem that goes into the mount holder on the frame. Only one hole there in the sweptline series. Or are you talking about the part that bolts to the engine that extends down to the mount? It has two holes but there are only two matching threaded holes on the side of the block where it goes, so it is obvious.

And if you have not sweated a flywheel ring on before, it is easy but not the first thing to try if you are really new to mechanics..how new is newbie, in other words? I am leery of you swapping flywheel rings if you don't know how to adjust spindle nuts...and not being critical. The spindle nut is as Greg is saying, a matter of feel. If someone shows you once, you have it forever. Flywheel rings on the other hand, take some tools and experience working with metals to avoid damage, although easy to do.

Glad to help if you PM me too, and this forum is FULL of knowledgeable people. I thought I was an ok mechanic til I started doing my truck, and would never have got it done without the forum, and people like Greg, Jeb, Dan, Lou, and....
rock
'64d100


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 3:39 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 4:59 am
Posts: 23
Location: northern virginia
Car Model:
sorry. it's a '61 d100. actually i am not a total idiot when it comes to this, but would rather listen to people who have more experience than i. i understand that it probably is a "feel" to the tightness. that translates to a torque spec.

as far as the bolt is concerned, i tried a 3/4 fine thread and it didn't want to go. i may have messed up threads. will check on that.


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 Post subject: update
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:58 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 4:59 am
Posts: 23
Location: northern virginia
Car Model:
got the ring off flywheel. actually one of the easier things i've done. can't flip it though, it's tapered on the side that goes on first. so guess i need that too.


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