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 Post subject: Rebuild in 3...2...1...
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:27 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 344
Location: Tennessee
Car Model:
Hey Guys!
Computer's been down for a week, so it's short notice.
The engine is going to the shop this week sometime.
Bored, cleaned, Cam bearings, Ect.

Q.1
I'm considering milling the block .100" What kind of problems will this cause? I did a lot of measuring, and I think my stock pushrods will just work.

Q.2 I want to run a Erson 270-280 cam...about .480" lift. Will I have Piston-valve problems?

Q.3 Will 340 valve springs require the pockets to be cut(larger)??

Any help will be appreciated, as I will be taking the engine this weekend sometime. Thanks.

_________________
225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 12:51 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
1. I prefer pushrods that are the correct length. Parts last longer that way. The head bolts shouldn't bottom out in the block, but check. Head bolt washers fix this if it's a problem.

2. A 225 heas tons of valve to piston clearance. I seriously doubt you'll have a problem, but make sure the valve spring retainer clears the valve guide. You run out of clearance there first. At least I did.

3. Nope. They fit fine. Get the larger retainers though.

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Joshua


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 3:38 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
That sounds similar to what I am doing. The standard advice I got, which seems reasonable and sound, is to do the head work first, measure the combustion chambers, then shave the block to get to the appropriate compression ratio. My target is between 9 and 9.5 to 1.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject: Engine Rebuild..3...2..1
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:57 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 344
Location: Tennessee
Car Model:
Thanks guys.
I have no way to accurately measure the chambers, I'm just "Helping" it out a little. I'll probably run an Offy 2x1, and Hooker Headers. I figure I can do the head work later, as funds come in: since it's Easy to access.
I fell that a 270ish cam will be upper limit with that combo, but it will be great as I improve the airflow. For now, the "Stock high-velocity ports will contribute to a near 100% Volumetric Efficiency for the Air-Fuel mixture."
hehehe...yeah right. :)
I'm getting the Engine kit from NAPA, they are having a huge sale this month. I'm not road racing at 6000 rpm, so I think it will be fine for a daily driver. I don't know about the Melling oil pump; maybe they'll trade me out for a 5-bolt rebuild kit.....
Thanks again!

_________________
225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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