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Solid motor mounts https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20708 |
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Author: | slantzilla [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:20 am ] |
Post subject: | Solid motor mounts |
I know there is not a whole lot of interest, but I fabbed a pair of solid mounts for my '66 Valiant today. My stock mounts had sagged and twisted, plus, I want to get rid of my torque link to free up some space. Total list of materials: 2-4" sections of 2X2X/1/4" box tubing 3-1/2X1 bolts 3-3/8X1 bolts 3-1/2" locknuts 3-3/8" locknuts Welder (optional) I just eyeballed the location for the holes, drilled them, and tightened the bolts up for a test fit in the car. When I was happy, I had the 2 1/2" bolts that go through the K frame welded in so as to avoid needing 2 wrenches. |
Author: | cmexlr8 [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:15 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Solid motor mounts |
Quote: I know there is not a whole lot of interest, but I fabbed a pair of solid mounts for my '66 Valiant today. My stock mounts had sagged and twisted, plus, I want to get rid of my torque link to free up some space.
Post some pics if you can and do not mind..
Total list of materials: 2-4" sections of 2X2X/1/4" box tubing 3-1/2X1 bolts 3-3/8X1 bolts 3-1/2" locknuts 3-3/8" locknuts Welder (optional) I just eyeballed the location for the holes, drilled them, and tightened the bolts up for a test fit in the car. When I was happy, I had the 2 1/2" bolts that go through the K frame welded in so as to avoid needing 2 wrenches. |
Author: | 64'4$peed [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 8:40 am ] |
Post subject: | |
How do you like em so far? how well does the chassis absorb the vibration? |
Author: | kesteb [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I did the same thing many years ago on a '66 dart with a 318 and I still have those mounts. I used 2x4 channel iron and 1/8" plate. The vibration was reasonable. |
Author: | BigBlockBanjo [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | solid motor mounts |
Where are the pictures?!?! My rubbers are shot, and I would prefer to go back with solid. No one makes 'em of course... I think solid are easier on the drivtrain. |
Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:23 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I run 1 Solid Mount On the Drivers Side - I had Problems With The usual Saggy Mounts, etc. But My Motor also Was moving Back (also Due To a Bad Trans Mount) And it was throwing my clutch adjustment all out of wack. I bought A Solid A Body/ A Engine Moroso Mount and Shimmed it About 3/16" Higher. Works Perfect. They come in pairs because aparrently The L and R Engine Mounts for 67-72 A Body / A engines are the same Left to right. I Got rid of the torque strap too. Still Use the rubber mount on the Right. Greg |
Author: | BigBlockBanjo [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | Solid motor mounts |
Stupid question(s): 1. What is a torque strap? 2. Wouldn't 2 kinds of mounts,(rubber/solid) cause cracking in the solid? because of the uneven load? |
Author: | slantzilla [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 5:10 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Sorry, no pictures, and they have only been in the car on a setup block. I may get a motor in the car next weekend though. These things are incredibly simple to make. If I can visualize and build them, anyone can. A torque link is a bar that runs from the left side of the motor to the chassis to keep the engine from torquing over on the mounts. |
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