Slant Six Forum :: Alignments

I don't think the ride height is the issue but does anyone have that figure and where exactly to measure from? Right now side to side is the same and looks like the same height before I got started.

3- take a ruler and measure the ride height, usually taken from the inner lower control arm (at it's pivot point) to the floor on both sides- the numbers should be as close as possible.

Quote:

3- take a ruler and measure the ride height, usually taken from the inner lower control arm (at it's pivot point) to the floor on both sides- the numbers should be as close as possible.

Measure from a level floor to the lowest point of the lower control arm height adjustment blade, and from the floor to the lowest point of the steering knuckle arm on the same side. The difference is the ride height for that side. Repeat for the other side.

Author:	Bren67Cuda904 [ Fri Nov 17, 2006 2:53 pm ]
Post subject:	Alignments
I just converted over to a disk brake setup including the upper A-arms. If they pull my car type in the computer, will those numbers be good numbers to use? Have we found different setting to be better and what are the specs if so?

Author:	james longhurst [ Sat Nov 18, 2006 5:31 am ]
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Yes, the only numbers that really change are for caster between power and manual steering. With the manual cars the spec is something like 1/2 degree negative and with power around 1/2 degree positive. The last few "performance" alignments I did with stock control arms were somewhere around 2 degrees positive caster, about 1/2 degree negative camber and 1/16" positive toe. The camber and caster are a bit variable. Sometimes you can only get so much caster in a particular car without affecting camber. Some guys here have used the offset UCA bushings to help this situation. -James

Author:	Bren67Cuda904 [ Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:59 am ]
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Most shops that can't do my car because there computer doesn't go that far back. Are the specs the same for a 74 manual steering Dart? They have that one.

Author:	james longhurst [ Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:28 am ]
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Yes, specs for a '74 A-body with manual steering should work fine. -James

Author:	Orange72 [ Sat Nov 18, 2006 4:56 pm ]
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Make sure you go to someone who has aligned mopars before, or better yet, does it on a regular basis. Most of the places around here either will refuse to do it, or they become instantly retarded and screw it up even more than it was.

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Author:	Bren67Cuda904 [ Sat Nov 18, 2006 5:20 pm ]
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Well I got an alignment today and something doesn't seem right. 1st problem I notice while driving. The car wants to drift right even if the road is leaning left a pinch. Steering wheel is not centered, however if I let it go, it centers but I am drifting right again. Kind of have to hold it left. 2nd problem is a visual and clearance one. Passenger side has plenty of clearance. The driverside under a right turn (one full wheel turn) and some body roll the tire will rub the fender slity at the 1-2 o-clock position. Also when viewing the front wheel, the driverside looks like it is much closer to the top edge of the fender than the passengerside. About a 1" to 1.5" difference. I am NOT talking about ride height here. Its like I have a 1" wheel spacer in the driverside (which I don't) When standing and viewing from a distance (front view) The wheels look to be standing at the same angle. The upper control arm adjustments are very different from side to side. Driverside is set out lot compaired to the passengerside. Possible causes: 1. I replace the K-member. Is there ajustment on these side to side? I thought that it just 4 big bolts. Get them all started and then hit them with an impact wrench. 2. Bad alignment? The tires are standing an the same angle though, but it does pull. 3. The front wheels are brand new. I checked only one wheel for the correct backspacing. Maybe I got one thats wrong.

Author:	68Valiant [ Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:30 pm ]
Post subject:
The first mistake that many shops make when aligning an older car with a torsion bar suspension is to neglect to check the ride height. This is mainly because the good old computers usually do not contain that information. If the ride height is lower on one side than the other and universal numbers are used to align the caster and camber, what you described above will happen. You can check the ride height yourself to see if it is ok by doing the following: 1- Look up the ride height in your repair manual. 2- Bounce both sides of the front suspension up and down a few times and allow the suspension to "settle" 3- take a ruler and measure the ride height, usually taken from the inner lower control arm (at it's pivot point) to the floor on both sides- the numbers should be as close as possible. 4- adjust torsion bars as necessary. Remember to do this on level ground with both wheels on the floor. I had the same problem aligning my Charger at these shops with the computer. The computer also doesn't compensate for frame sag. I finally found an old timer that used hand tools and guages in a pit to align it proper. Russ

Author:	emsvitil [ Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:20 pm ]
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Quote: I don't think the ride height is the issue but does anyone have that figure and where exactly to measure from? Right now side to side is the same and looks like the same height before I got started. Check your email, sent you some pages of FM

Author:	Bren67Cuda904 [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:42 am ]
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Thank You

Author:	Bren67Cuda904 [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:07 am ]
Post subject:
What do these mean? AR-1, AR-2 AP-1, AP-2 AV-1, AV-2 Which one is mine?

Author:	emsvitil [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 6:56 am ]
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Use AV-1 (valiant, Signet, Barracuda 6-cyl)

Author:	slantvaliant [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 7:03 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: 3- take a ruler and measure the ride height, usually taken from the inner lower control arm (at it's pivot point) to the floor on both sides- the numbers should be as close as possible. Measure from a level floor to the lowest point of the lower control arm height adjustment blade, and from the floor to the lowest point of the steering knuckle arm on the same side. The difference is the ride height for that side. Repeat for the other side.

Author:	68Valiant [ Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:47 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: 3- take a ruler and measure the ride height, usually taken from the inner lower control arm (at it's pivot point) to the floor on both sides- the numbers should be as close as possible. Measure from a level floor to the lowest point of the lower control arm height adjustment blade, and from the floor to the lowest point of the steering knuckle arm on the same side. The difference is the ride height for that side. Repeat for the other side. Thanks for filling that missing step. (embarassed) Just goes to show that if I could make that simple mistake, so too then could the alignment shop! Russ

Author:	tml1138 [ Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:41 pm ]
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Related question: If I give an alignment shop my year and model ('71 Scamp) but yet I have replaced the suspension and brakes from a '75 Dart (UCAs) and '73 Duster (LCAs), will that be okay? Or should they know exactly what I've done and then refer to later year '73-up a-bodies for proper ride height and alignment specs? I have the original '71 power steering and linkage, not the later years, BTW. Thanks!

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