Hi Guys,
The alternator in my slant sounds like it is going to explode! The bearing is shot. I did a search and read several mixed things about buying rebuilt alternators (or anything for that matter).
I called around to Schucks, Napa, and Autozone and none of them carry new alternators, only rebuilt ones. Napa carries for $65 a rebuilt one with a lifetime warranty, but i'm afraid it's just going to die every few years like my previous rebuilt alternators.
Is buying a lifetime warranty rebuilt one my best option? Or is there a place I can get a new one at?

Thanks!

another option --is find a local shop to repair the alternator that is bad--it will not be as cheap as auto zone-- but usually the workmanship is superior to the chain stores rebuilds--
Here in
Wichita we have a shop that is swamped doing just that service--- he also has an excellent rep-- for doing quality work.
just fyi

Take your noisy alternator and get the yellow pages.

See if there is a good reputable automotive eletcric shop in your area - They can probably rebuild it. and it should be better than the "remanufactured" chung sheng parts store crap.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Brand-new alternator? Take your pick:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0110202467
(78 amp, small-diameter pulley)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0110188741
(41 amp, medium-diameter pulley)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0110189234
(60 amp, medium-diameter pulley)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0110197214
(60 amp, small-diameter pulley)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0110198768
(50 amp, large-diameter pulley)

All of these are for sale by Bill Rolik; I've never had a bad experience buying from him. You don't specify what year and model you're working on, but guessing it's a fairly typical Dart or Valiant, I'd make the 41-amp unit my first choice. The 78A alternator would want some rewiring under the hood for safety, and while the 50A unit would work well, low-RPM output is sometimes a little less than desireable with the large-diameter pulley. These are all '70+ alternators, which means they'll work on any year vehicle. If you're installing them on a '60-'69 car, you can either convert to the '70-up regulator, or carry on using the '60-'69 regulator by grounding one of the new alternator's two field terminals.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the info.

I probably should have mentioned that the most reputable auto electric shop just recently closed
They were really busy, but the city closed their shop because they are going to put in a new walkway. The family that owned the business didn't relocate, they decided to close it down
I have found a few other auto electric places, but I don't know if they are good or not. It's always scarry trying new places, I guess that is my best option though!

As far as the car - sorry I forgot to mention, it's a 71 dodge dart swinger. I believe a 65amp alternator is stock.

Mmm...60A alternators were available by special order or as part of various option packages on '71 Darts, but they were not standard equipment. Generally, 6-cylinder cars without A/C, without trailer towing packages, got 30-, 34- or 37-amp alternators. 50 and 60A alternators were installed with A/C and/or trailer tow.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Take the plunge and fix it yourself, nine times out of ten only the front bearing needs replaced at a cost of about six bucks. rear bearing is not sealed like the front , just a dab of wheel bearing grease in it before you reasemble.FSM will show you the way.

Actually my rear bearing was toast. I replaced them both because I had it apart........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes