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electronic voltage regulator for 63 Dart slant 6
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Author:  zweistein [ Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:34 pm ]
Post subject:  electronic voltage regulator for 63 Dart slant 6
I just replaced a 72 month battery in my 63 Dart slant 6 which died in only 2.5 years. With the new battery installed my voltmeter measured 12.45 volts with the engine off and 15.1 volts with the engine on, so I presume that the electromechanical voltage regulator is no good. If so, should I replace it with an electronic voltage regulator? Are they available? And, other than connecting it to the fire wall and connecting 2 wires is there anything else needs doing?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Info Here.
Author:  tophat [ Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
if you replace the mechanical reg with an "solid state" reg. there is a bit of rewiring, and you must replace the alt in the "up-grade" search here to find out how.
I did this 63 Dart and it charges much better, though I did loose the dimming headlights when the bass hits :(

I suggest getting the new reg connector from the j-yard, as crimp ones wont work well, if at all.

My experience is EITHER reg needs to be grounded WELL!!! I have a 12 gauge ground from the reg mounting bolt straight to the battery.

good luck

tophat
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
if you replace the mechanical reg with an "solid state" reg. there is a bit of rewiring
Not if he uses one of the many solid-state regulators that drop right in place of the mechanical regulator with no rewiring.
Quote:
and you must replace the alt
Nope, he can keep the alternator he has now.
Quote:
My experience is EITHER reg needs to be grounded WELL!!! I have a 12 gauge ground from the reg mounting bolt straight to the battery.
Yep! Excellent advice.
Author:  69a100 [ Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:14 am ]
Post subject:  Charging
If you want to upgrade to the newer style regulator, then yes you will need to swap alts. If you use the newer little black box regulators, then no swap required.
I had lots of problems with the small style regulators not doing there job and said screw it! I went to the yard and grabbed off a 75 something or another, the alternator, regulator, and a bunch of the wiring harness for it that I could grab and installed it on my 69 a100. Problems over that quick!!!
From what I can tell, the alt. looks like it puts out around 75 amps or so, tons more than the 32 tha was in there.
Lots of info here, imperialclub.com/repair/electrical/charging.htm
Author:  tophat [ Fri Dec 22, 2006 7:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
sorry, I was meaning with later "stock" parts, I forgot to say that.
Author:  reddart64 [ Tue Dec 26, 2006 3:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
This question may or may not be applicable here, but . . . What kind of upgraded V/R, if any, could I use with the Pertronix conversion?

Thanks,

Geoff
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
This question may or may not be applicable here, but . . . What kind of upgraded V/R, if any, could I use with the Pertronix conversion?
Any of the ones in the post I linked to above, in the 2nd post in this thread.
Author:  Matt Cramer [ Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
This question may or may not be applicable here, but . . . What kind of upgraded V/R, if any, could I use with the Pertronix conversion?

Thanks,

Geoff
Most aftermarket electronics seem to work with any sort of voltage regulator a reasonable person could put in a car. I'm running EFI with a mechanical voltage regulator. Had to add on a noise filter, but it does work.
Author:  Chuck [ Sat Dec 30, 2006 3:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have used the Ampco and Wells VR-706 without any trouble. See the Parts List (http://www.slantsix.org/parts/sl6-parts.htm) and look under Regulators. You can type CONTROL-F to find an item on the page.

If you use clean bolts and also clean any rust off of the firewall where the regulator bolts down, you should not have any problems. (The original wire from the engine to the firewall needs to be in place.)
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