Welcome to the site.
If you are wanting a dedicated race car, there are quite a few guys with all motor 12 second combos.
If you want it streetable, spray is the answer that you don't wanna hear.
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| Author: | MOPAR_64 [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | New to this site |
I have a 1964 Plymouth valiant signet 200, 2 door and stock as a bone and i want to keep the 225- push button just so i can smoke some buddys at the drag strip with lil 5.0 mustangs haha but i was wondering what i can do to get my car to turn a low 12 in a quater with out adding turbo or NOS. I want to keep the car over 12 so i dont have to put a cage in it.. also what other things should i do to keep the car in tack? i def dont want it falling apart on me thats for sure...well any help here would be greatley appreciated... |
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| Author: | Rob Simmons [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:37 am ] |
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Welcome to the Forum! Your Valiant is a great candidate to build up to smoke Mustangs. Do some searching through the various sections and you will find that the question you have about building your car to run in the 12s without big power adders is very doable with the right work. There are several people running in the 12s with pretty straightforward combinations. Are you planning on keeping it as a street car or race only? Weight is a big consideration. Raising the compression by milling the block and/or head and getting a higher ratio gear for the rear end are two of the big things to think about. After you've had a chance to look through the abundance of information here and have come up with what you think will work for you, let us know and there are several folks who will gladly chime in on what has worked for them. It's good to have you here. |
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| Author: | mpgmike [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:52 am ] |
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Whenever I attack an issue I always look to the weakest link in the chain. It is my opinion that you have several weak links, starting with ignition and followed closely behind with the stock choked exhaust. From there you need to feed it some more air and fuel. At this point the head becomes the choke point. Once you're making power, rear end gears gotta match the rest of the combo. A little reinforcement to the tranny will keep it together on the launches. 13" weenies don't do much for traction so some appropriate tires are needed. Just think in the natural progression of things and before you know it you'll be doing 14s on the cheap. Then with a little effort (and $$) you'll be clipping 13s. Of course driving technique makes a difference and over time you'll get better times just from the practice. Once you're in the 13s, with a better knowledge of your car, and an understanding of the weak areas, we'll be better able to help you squeeze that last little bit needed to dip into the 12s. Mike www.PowreHaus.com |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Welcome to the site. If you are wanting a dedicated race car, there are quite a few guys with all motor 12 second combos. If you want it streetable, spray is the answer that you don't wanna hear.
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| Author: | MOPAR_64 [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:24 pm ] |
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Well Thanks guys but so far i have did away with the 13" wheel and went to a 14" aluminum slot with a 215/60/14 yokahama's.... But what i wanted to do is go with a cliffored 4 barrel intake with a 650 holley, 2-3into1 headers... i have a forced air indution kit i wanna build that i have drawed up... But I really dont know what to do with the cam i want my power range i think between 3-5,000 rmps but i dont know where to get a cam and what to get i also want a roller but i dont know if its possible but would be cool if u could, alos any sug.. on the ignition.. i used to race dirt but know i wanna run my pride and joy down the strip but yes i do wanna keep it street leagal.. But anymore help would be great cuz ya know racing season is around the corner.. Thanks Guys |
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| Author: | mpgmike [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:32 pm ] |
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Don't know about the rollers? Factory electronic ignition with an MSD 6 and Blaster coil will handle the ignition as far as output. For forced induction, the MSD 6BMT will allow you to dial in a given amount of ignition retard per psi boost. Forced induction doesn't like valve overlap. Look for a wide lobe angle seperation and lots of lift in your choice of cam. Mike www.PowreHaus.com |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:51 am ] |
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Quote: Well Thanks guys but so far i have did away with the 13" wheel and went to a 14" aluminum slot with a 215/60/14 yokahama's.... But what i wanted to do is go with a cliffored 4 barrel intake with a 650 holley, 2-3into1 headers... i have a forced air indution kit i wanna build that i have drawed up...
On the street I'd stay away from a 650. Personally I prefer a 390 Holley for street use. I stepped up to a 600 last year and did not see an appreciable gain over the 390 in ET.But I really dont know what to do with the cam i want my power range i think between 3-5,000 rmps but i dont know where to get a cam and what to get i also want a roller but i dont know if its possible but would be cool if u could, alos any sug.. on the ignition.. Camshaft will be dependent upon many variables. Headwork, compression, car weight, converter, rear gear being a few. I also personally will not run anything but an MSD-6AL. I spent waaayyyy too much time and money chasing gremlins caused by Mopar electronic ignition. Enjoy
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| Author: | MOPAR_64 [ Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:43 pm ] |
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well whats a good mild cam for my motor and where can i get it? also on my head i need parts numbers and info on the rockers, springs and the rods i will be porting the head and milling it as well prolly about 100,000 or so any ideas on that but i found a kit on ebay from mad dog racing it comes with the cam springs and i think the rods anybody tried this kit or know anything about it? Thanks |
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